Mydachshunds.info

The name Dachshund is German for “badger dog.” Although plenty of people pronounce it like dash-hound, the word is correctly pronounced docks-hoont. Yet, in Germany, the Dachshund isn’t called a Dachshund at all. The dog is a Teckel or Dackel. (Back in the 19th century, the Dachshund was even called the Royal Teutonic Dog by some.) The name Dachshund is somewhat misunderstood. Dachs means “badger” in German; hund doesn’t, contrary to what you may think, mean “hound.” It simply means “dog.” Although Dachshunds are, to this day, classified in the Hound group according to the American Kennel Club, they could arguably fit just as well with the Terriers. Terrier means “earth dog,” and going underground is what Dachshunds do best (well, one of the many things they do best). Dachshunds hunt by scent and have keen noses like their Hound brothers and sisters, but if you’re on the other side of a door, that bark sounds an awful lot like a Terrier.

A hard fact of life is that the drawbacks to owning a Dachshund can outweigh the benefits for some people:
- Dachshunds need plenty of attention and affection. They want to be with you, not tied to a chain in the backyard.
- Dachshunds aren’t people (even though they may think they are!) and must be taught how to live with people. Without proper and consistent teaching and socialization efforts, your dog may end up becoming an annoyance to you, your family, or your neighbors. He may even inflict damage on your possessions, other people, or himself.
- Dachshunds must be housebroken, and until they are, your carpet or other household surfaces may suffer.
- Dachshunds cost money. Most people can expect to spend around $1,000 in the first year to give their new puppies the proper care and supplies.
- Dachshunds need your time. They require walking, feeding, training, grooming, and attention every single day to stay healthy and happy.
- Dachshunds aren’t a commitment to be taken lightly. Many live to be 15 years old or more.
- Your Dachshund will probably grow old and die before you do. You have to make decisions about your Dachsie’s health care and quality of life, and eventually you must deal with your own grief.
- Your Dachshund requires regular preventive veterinary care. If he becomes ill or injured, you’re also responsible for his care and treatment. Dachshunds are prone to several serious health\ conditions, and the medical costs to treat these problems can be high.
- Dachshunds tie you down. You can’t just fly off on a spontaneous vacation for a long weekend, or decide not to come home after work without arranging for your dog’s care.
- Dachshunds don’t speak English. You have to learn to communicate with your dog in a way he understands.
-Dachshunds live to eat. Obesity puts further strain on a Dachshund’s back — not to mention his heart and entire body. Cute and pleading as he may be, you must be prepared to keep your Dachshund’s eating under control. No, your Dachshund shouldn’t eat that quarter-pound burger with cheese, let alone too many extra dog treats! Dachshunds (like all dogs) have fewer taste buds than humans, so the taste of food isn’t as intense for them as it is for us. For this reason, dogs are more likely to eat just about anything, taste not withstanding.
-Dachshunds bark. Barking is part of their modus operandi. They were bred to hunt badgers or other small game underground . When the game was cornered, a Dachshund would bark to alert his human. Although you
can train any dog not to bark excessively, Dachshunds bark pretty frequently. Get used to it, or don’t get a Dachshund.
-Dachshunds are manipulative. They’re cute, and they know it. They’re clever, too. They can get you to do just about anything, unless you have rules and you stick to your guns. Your dog has to know that rules are rules and that what you say goes. If you’re a big marshmallow when it comes to consistency and rule enforcement, you can’t get angry at your dog for making his own rules. Somebody has to do it!

Dachshunds have special-care needs related to preserving the integrity of their spinal cords. Dachshunds are chondrodystrophic, an inherited condition that results in dwarfism and makes the Dachshund’s spine vulnerable to disc rupture. One hard jump off a high bed, a fall from a porch, or even a sudden twisting movement to catch a ball can rupture a disk. The result can range from severe pain to paralysis — temporary or permanent.

Do you have the patience required not to lose your cool when your Dachshund steals your pot roast right off your plate? Or eats the last half of your book before you get to the exciting conclusion? Or has an accident in the house again? I’m not saying you can’t get irritated — or even downright angry — at your Dachshund. But yelling, screaming, flailing your arms around, and, dog-forbid, hitting your pup are activities that will do more harm than good every single time.
Every time your Dachshund makes a mistake — accidentally or on purpose — you have an opportunity to teach him something. This is especially true when you catch him in the act. But this teaching has to be performed calmly and rationally. Teaching a Dachshund is a lot like teaching a child: Losing your temper will only scare and confuse your charge. Keeping your cool will prove that you’re the pack leader and the one with all the power.
Think long and hard about whether you have a short fuse or a long one before bringing home a Dachshund. And then, who knows? You may end up with a perfect little angel, and the whole discussion will be moot. Better to be prepared, however, because most Dachshunds are about half-angel, and half-, well . . . you know.

The world looks a lot different to a Dachshund than it does to you. Can you imagine walking around with your eye level less than a foot above the ground? No? Try it. In fact, the best thing to do before you change one single thing about your household in preparation for your new puppy is to get down on your belly and look around each room in your house.
Make a note of everything you see that could possibly cause trouble for a small dog. Stay down there until you’re sure that you’ve exhausted the possibilities. Read on for some things to look for while you’re surveying. Then, after you’re done, you may just feel the urge to curl up and take a nap. See any comfy pillows? A Dachshund-friendly house should have at least a few.

So you think your sweet little dog couldn’t make too much of a mess? You’d be surprised. Do you really love your collection of antique teacups or crystal vases? Then either display them well above the level any Dachshund can reach or put them away for a while. Puppies are exuberant and curious, and they haven’t yet
learned what areas are off limits to them. It’s not the puppy’s fault if he jumps onto that end table to see just what’s up there and breaks something valuable. Imagine that you have a toddler in the house and pack away the fragile stuff accordingly.

Also, although a Dachshund is small, he has a pretty big mouth, and I don’t just mean he barks a lot. He can also chew to the point of major destruction. Really. No two ways about it, Dachshunds love to chew. In fact, they not only love it, but they also consider it their dog-given right. Your Dachshund will consider anything that looks chewable to be his own personal property. So you thought that slipper was yours? Think again. As far as your new puppy is concerned, if he sees it and decides he wants to chew it, it’s his.

Avoid giving your Dachshund cat toys, even if you have a Mini. Dachshunds are more enthusiastic chewers than cats and they have larger mouths and stronger jaws. Cat toys often have small pieces like bells, feathers, or felt that a Dachshund can easily swallow or choke on. The best way to discourage this sort of destruction in the early stages is to offer a firm “No” when your Dachshund is in the process of chewing or clawing; then immediately redirect him to an acceptable but similar activity. For example, if your Dachsie is chewing your shoe, say “No!” and then take away the shoe, replacing it with a chew toy in his mouth. If he chews the chew toy, heap on the praise.
If you have a piece of furniture or other object that your Dachshund just won’t leave alone, buy a bottle of chew-deterrent spray, like Bitter Apple brand spray, and follow the directions. This spray makes the object taste horrible, and your Dachshund will probably learn quickly to leave it alone. If this doesn’t work, you
may also try wrapping the area in aluminum foil or keeping a spray bottle filled with water on hand to deter the behavior. Or you can keep a can filled with pennies nearby to startle your Dachshund away from the forbidden area.
If you have a digger, you may want to consider purchasing a few carpet squares or remnants that are reserved for your Dachshund. He can dig and scratch on them to his heart’s content. If he scratches and digs on your carpet or wall, move him immediately to his carpet — even help move his paws in a digging motion over it. If he gets it, praise him for all you’re worth. He’ll get the idea eventually.

A big thing to consider when Dachs-proofing your home is how to make your stairs Dachshund-friendly. Stairs are hard on Dachshund backs, especially for the Minis because each step is a lot bigger to a 7-pound dog than to a 30-pound dog. If you have stairs in your home, that’s no reason to give up your Dachshund
dreams. But you do need to take a few precautions. If you have the space and the resources, a ramp is great for Dachshunds. A ramp is most practical outside, where you can offer your dog an alternate route off the deck. The problem is that some Dachshunds ignore that carefully constructed ramp and take the stairs anyway.

You can install a gate so the ramp is the only way down for your pet, but now you’re getting pretty fancy. Some gates, made for small children or pets, bolt onto walls or decks and have an easyopen swinging mechanism for the convenience of adults. This option is worth it if you can afford it, but it’s not for everyone.
Deciding whether or not your Dachsie is allowed to climb the stairs comes down to risk assessment. Going up and down stairs can be hard on those Dachshunds who’ll probably have back problems anyway, and climbing the steps may trigger an incident. Other dogs, though, will be fine. You can play it safe but expend more
effort, or you can expend a lot of effort to prevent something that may never happen. As long as you recognize that you’re taking responsibility for your pet, you can make the decision.

Dogs are often classified as man’s best friend. Which is why they deserve to be looked after properly – especially when they are ill.

There are some common dog diseases that you should look out for. The good news is that there are vaccines for most of them.

Bordatella
An airborne contagious bacterial disease affecting the lungs. Symptoms include severe coughing.

Corona
A viral disease that affects the intestines. Leads to fever, diarrhoea and weakness. Corona can be fatal in puppies.

Distemper
A highly contagious disease that affects the central nervous system. Symptoms include fever, lethargy, vomiting, discharge from the eyes and nose, diarrhoea and seizures. Those who recover from distemper usually suffer permanent damage to vision and the nervous system.

Heartworms
A very fatal, but preventable, disease that is contracted through the bite of an infected mosquito. It enters circulatory system and infests in the animal’s heart.

Hepatitis
Mostly affects dogs at a young age. Affects organs such as the liver and kidneys and is potentially fatal. It is important to note that hepatitis in dogs is not the same disease as the human form and cannot be passed on to humans.

Leptospirosis
A bacterial disease that affects organs such as the liver and kidneys. If the disease spreads to the kidneys it can be fatal. Overexposure to rat urine poses the highest threat.

Lyme
A disease carried by ticks that can cause permanent damage to muscle joints. Symptoms include lameness.

Para-influenza
The viral form of bronchitis, also known as kennel cough.

Parvo-virus
An intestinal disease causing diarrhoea, vomiting, dehydration, severe abdominal pain, high fever and possible death if not treated correctly. Dogs living in unhygienic conditions are more susceptible to the virus as they are in the ‘perfect breeding ground’ for the disease.

Rabies
A fatal viral disease that is contracted through wild animals. It can be passed on to your pet and humans and affects the central nervous system. Symptoms include excess drooling, seizures, unexplained aggression, and difficulty with swallowing.

Why your dog needs a bath?
You might think that your dog needs a bath as often as you. It may come as a shock, but in fact, most dogs usually never really need a bath.

There are no strict guidelines on how often you should was your dog, and it mainly depends on the breed of your dog and your lifestyle.

Here are some guidelines to help you determine when to wash your dog:

* If your dog has fleas, ticks or mites, a good bath is the best way to start the treatment plan. Use a shampoo recommended by your vet that kills the pests and their eggs. You might have to do a follow-up bath in a week or two. A bath together with an effective, safe topical insecticide will ensure your dog stays flea- or tick-free.
* If your dog has long hair, he or she will need a regular grooming routine. Depending on the breed, long-haired breeds’ coats usually get matted and knotty; other breeds’ hair grows like human hair and needs a regular trim.
* If your dog rolls in something smelly it is wise to give him or her a bath. If it rolled in bird droppings (which dogs love to do), a bath is not always necessary, a good wash with a facecloth or wet wipes will also do the trick.
* If your dog has skin allergies, dandruff or other skin or coat conditions your vet may recommend that you bath your dog in a special shampoo to alleviate the problem.

Tips for bathing your dog

Timing. Although it is not always possible to plan the bath well in advance, you should try to bath your dog in fair, warm weather so it can sun dry afterwards. Midday in the summer and on a sunny winter’s day is usually the best time, this allows enough time for dogs with long hair to dry as well.

Give your dog a good brush before and after the bath - this will also speed up the drying process. If your long-haired dog is not dry to the skin an hour after the bath you should consider blow-drying its hair - especially in winter. When using a hairdryer make sure that you put it on its lowest heat as not to burn your dog’s skin. Most dogs don’t like the sound and sensation of hairdryers, and drying in the sun stays the best option.

The right shampoo. Always use a good shampoo recommended by your vet. You can’t wash your dog with your shampoo – shampoo intended for humans can be harmful to dogs because it is formulated for a different skin pH. Read the instructions on the shampoo bottle. If you are bathing your dog because he has a skin problem you might have to leave the shampoo in the coat for a certain period before rinsing it out.

Location, location, location. Where you bath your dog usually depends on the weather and the size of the dog. The options are: a bathtub, a basin and outside. This brings us to the temperature of the water – the water should be lukewarm, don’t bath your dog in cold water only, even if you are bathing outside. Your dog is as sensitive to cold water as you are.

If you are going to bath your dog in the bathroom or the kitchen basin be careful that it doesn’t jump out, slip and hurt himself.

Be prepared. Have everything you need at hand before you put Fido in the bathtub, it is not a good idea to leave them alone in the tub to find a towel or shampoo.

Lather and scrub well. Dilute the shampoo in a jug of water to allow it to spread well. Be sure to wash your dog all over, with a gentle but firm rubbing motion to loosen dirt and oils. Be careful around the eyes and avoid getting water and soap in the ears.

Rinse well. Make sure you rinse your dog very well. Soap residue can irritate the skin and cause it to itch and flake. The easiest and fastest way to rinse your dog is with a spray hose attachment. Some dogs are scared of the noise or sensation on their skin in which case a plastic jug is the best alternative.

Brush well. Brush down your dog’s coat before the bath to get rid of all the dead and dry hair - especially in long-haired dogs. Any mats or tangles not brushed out before you wet the dog will tighten into felted mats and become almost impossible to brush out later.

Standing trick. If you have a small or medium dog, try to teach him to stand with his paws on the side of the tub. This will help you to wash him as quick as possible and also help with the rinsing.

Shaking. When taking your dog out of the bath, hold it tight and put the towel over his back, keeping your hand on his neck (so that he doesn’t shake) and then towel dry him. If he is small enough, pick him up and hold him tight while you towel dry him, starting with the face.

Lots of love. Most dog despise having a bath, so try and make it as pleasant as possible by giving him lots of reassurance and love. Also praise him before, during and after the bath. Keep his favourite treat handy for after the bath.

Safe bathing - things you need

* Put a rubber mat in the bathtub to prevent your dog from slipping.
* Put cotton balls in your dog’s ears to prevent the water from going into his ears. It can also prevent him from shaking vigorously. Another tip to try and stop your dog from shaking is to place one hand over the back of his neck when washing – this can stop the shake before it starts. Wash his face with a facecloth rather than trying to wash his face and then rinsing the soap off, although most of the dog shampoos are tear-free the soap is still harmful to the eyes. This will also keep water out of your dog’s nose which can lead to choking.

Although you might be tempted to bath your dog often, be careful not to overdo it – speak to your vet before establishing your dog’s bath routine. The fresh shampoo smell and soft snugly coat might be nice for you, but remember your dog is still a dog and the doggie smell is his best.

It is true what they say about puppies and children. Neither of them stays clean for very long. Tick them out in their Sunday best and, 2 minutes later, they are covered with dirt.
They have smudges on their faces and they look deliriously happy. There is a major difference, however between the 2 species. You can pop the child into a bathtub at any age.
You can always, nor should you, bathe your puppy.

At What Age Do You Bathe Your Puppy?

While accidents do happen to puppies, it is not wise to wash your puppy when it is very young. In fact, you should not bathe any puppy until they are more than 12-weeks-old. Until then, you will have to satisfy any cravings for a puppy wash with a sponge bath.

Before your pup is 12-weeks, washing is a drier affair. If he or she has been in a mess, the process is simple. You run over their coat with a damp cloth. It is best to only “spot clean” at this age. Simply wet a rag - do not soak it, and clean up the dirty or foul-smelling spots. If you want, use a mild dog shampoo or soap to help. After wards, towel or fluff up dry.

How To Bathe Your Puppy

After your puppy has matured beyond 12-weeks of age, you can introduce him or her to actual baths. Depending upon the size of your pet, you may use a small bowl, the kitchen sink or a tub.

• Before the bath begins, brush your puppy thoroughly. This will remove any excess dirt. Brushing helps get rid of any shedding hair. It will also take out any tangles or matted hair.

• Prepare the bath.

• Make sure the water is not too hot. It should also not be too cold. Keep it at a comfortable temperature.

• If you are using a sink or the bathtub be sure you slip-proof it. Place a rubber mat on the bottom. This will prevent your puppy from slipping, falling and possibly injuring him or her self.

• When it comes time to shampoo your dog, make sure you have chosen the right product. Use only puppy or dog shampoo on your canine. These shampoos and conditioners are formulated to work with your animal’s coat. Human shampoos or dish detergents are not.

• Be careful when lathering your pet not to get any soap in their eyes. Stay clear of the mouth and delicate ears.

• Use warm water to both wash and rinse your puppy. If you can, apply the water with a hose. This speeds up the process. Do not allow the force of water to blast your puppy.
Use a gentle spray or mist. Yet, you must be thorough when rinsing. You must not leave any excess soap on the puppy’s skin.

• After you rinse him or her thoroughly, remove your puppy from the bath.

• Towel the animal as dry as possible.

• If it is cool outside, do not let your puppy go outdoors. Keep the puppy inside until he or she is thoroughly dry.

Bathing a puppy is not difficult. It is a relatively easy task. Try to make it enjoyable.
This may be the first bath, but it sure will not be the last. You need to make the event a pleasant experience. Although your dog may never love taking a bath, if he or she is comfortable with their first bathing experience, it makes future bath times easier.

You’ll need to go shopping before you bring your puppy home. There are many, many adorable and tempting items at pet supply stores, but these are the basics.

• Food and water dishes. Look for bowls that are wide and low or weighted in the bottom so they will be harder to tip over. Stainless steel bowls are a good choice because they are easy to clean (plastic never gets completely clean) and almost impossible to break. Avoid bowls that place the food and water side by side in one unit it’s too easy for your dog to get his water dirty that way.
• Leash. A six-foot leather leash will be easy on your hands and very
strong.
• Collar. Start with a nylon buckle collar. For a perfect fit, you should be able to insert two fingers between the collar and your pup’s neck. Your dog will need larger collars as he grows up.
• Crate. Choose a sturdy crate that is easy to clean and large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down in.
• Bed. Beds made of any material other than metal are not practical for Dachshunds. Wicker, bamboo, or any kind of plastic beds are a definite no! These dogs chew on anything. To discourage this habit, a taste deterrent called Bitter Apple can be helpful. This comes in a spray and a cream. It will save your antique table legs and possibly your favorite chair.
• Nail cutters. Get a good, sharp pair that are the appropriate size for the nails you will be cutting. Your dog’s breeder or veterinarian can give you some guidance here.
• Grooming tools. Different kinds of dogs need different kinds of grooming tools.
• Chew toys. Dogs must chew, especially puppies. Make sure you get things that won’t break or crumble off in little bits, which the dog can choke on. Very hard plastic bones are a good choice. Dogs love rawhide bones, too, but pieces of the rawhide can get caught in your dog’s throat, so they should only be allowed when you are there to supervise.
• Toys. Watch for sharp edges and unsafe items such as plastic eyes that can be swallowed. Many toys come with squeakers, which dogs can also tear out and swallow. All dogs will eventually destroy their toys; as each toy is torn apart, replace it with a new one.

One of the most valuable items you’ll buy for your new puppy or dog is a crate. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to have one. It should be one of the first things you buy before you bring your dog home. Having a crate for your Dachshund will make your life a lot easier and make your puppy’s life a lot safer. It will also make house training much simpler and will expand your choices of where you can put your dog. Sometimes people are shocked at the thought of crating a dog and believe it is cruel. When I was actively breeding and showing Dachshunds and would sell puppies, most new owners would visibly and verbally express their disagreement when I strongly suggested they get a crate for their puppy. It took a lot of education and reasoning to convince them that it was in their best interest, and the puppy’s, to do this.
In the wild, young dogs seek the safety of their den. Your dog has retained this instinct to seek a secluded and protected niche where he can rest and fee sheltered. That niche is his crate, where he will feel safe and secure. It is wise to have his crate open in the room when he’s loose so he can get used to it. Leave a towel inside and his toys. He will go in and out at will and soon consider it his special den. Then, when you close the door, he will be in a secure, familiar place. It is a good idea to feed him in his crate and to have him spend time in his crate. Crates come in several styles and sizes. One popular and versatile style is made of lightweight plastic with a metal grated door. It’s suitable for airline travel and can be cleaned easily.

There are also crates made of sturdy metal wire, which provide more ventilation, stay cleaner, are completely collapsible, and allow your Dachshund to see everything that is going on around him. However, they are not suitable for airline travel and do not hold in the warmth in colder weather. This last point is of no concern, however, if the crate is to be used exclusively in the house. I personally prefer a wire crate for indoor use, because it enables your Dachshund to feel that he is still part of things, since he can see all around him. It also enables you to completely see your Dachshund if he has a problem while in his crate.
However, these crates are not easy to transport, so if you plan to travel with your dog, you may want to get two crates one of each type. Your Dachshund’s crate should be big enough to allow him to completely stand up, completely turn around, and comfortably lie down. If you are going to have a home crate and a traveling crate, you may want the home crate to be a little larger, since the dog will be spending most of his time in this one.

There are also self-contained puppy pens where the puppy can sleep on one side and still have room for newspapers on the other side, so he can relieve himself without soiling his bed. There are also exercise pens that are portable, fold up, and can be used outdoors as well. They are open on top and can be clipped with standard snap locks. You can enlarge them as your puppy requires more space. These flexible pens make an excellent outdoor confinement area if your yard is not fenced. If you do have a fenced yard, these pens can be clipped to your existing chain link to set boundaries for your Dachshund if you do not want him to have the freedom of the entire yard or have gardens you don’t want dug up and rearranged. They also come in handy if you can’t watch your puppy every minute and want to be sure he’s safe. The Dachshund is a dog who does not do well staked or tied outside, and a puppy should never be left out that way.

The first few weeks with your new dog are so exciting for both of you! Leaving his familiar surroundings and being with people he doesn’t know in a strange place can be very frightening for a puppy, though. Try to make this experience as pleasant and comforting as possible. That is why this trip home is the one exception to the fundamental rule that your dog should be in a crate while traveling. On this one trip, have someone hold the puppy in a blanket or towel. Talk to him in a soothing and loving manner to try to make him feel as secure as possible.

The arrival of your new family member is an exciting time for everyone. Keep in mind, though, that your puppy will probably be feeling confused and somewhat frightened. If there are children in the family, be sure they have been well prepared for the dog’s arrival. They must learn how to behave around a dog and how to handle him properly, particularly if he’s a puppy. Above all, they must be taught that a dog isn’t a toy. Children must learn to be gentle while the dog is getting used to them and they are getting used to the dog.

Depending on his age, your puppy’s first night is likely to be a disturbing one for your family. The younger your puppy is, the more probable it is that he will be confused and frightened at being away from his mother and his litter mates. He will let you know this by loud, mournful wails that can last for a remarkably long time. This is a perfect example of the usefulness of a crate. If you put him in his crate beside your bed, he will probably be quiet during the night, because he is reassured by your presence. If you leave him in a room by himself, he will cry and howl and you will have to steel yourself to ignore his heartbreaking cries. You might try putting a loud ticking clock with him. Sometimes a radio playing softly will also help.

Regardless of what room in the house he is in, it is always strongly recommended that you crate your puppy or dog for the night, to keep him safe. For the first few days, your puppy will most likely experience some form of separation anxiety at leaving his mother and litter mates. This anxiety can be significantly reduced if you plan your time so that for the first three or four days you or someone is with the puppy all day. During this introduction period, keep the puppy involved with plenty of attention from family members. If you do have children, this is a great time to teach them how to handle puppies and to explain specific, commonsense rules on how to play with them. Make them understand that these are hard and fast rules that must be followed. If you are a one-person household, then just plan to devote all your time to your puppy for several days. When someone isn’t with the puppy, he will be eating, sleeping, or going to the bathroom. You will be surprised at how your devotion to your dog in these early days will hasten the house training and obedience training processes.

Do not feel your puppy is being deprived if you have to leave him home alone. There are ways to get him accustomed to this. I strongly advise that you crate your dog any time you leave the house. However, no dog should be crated for more than about six hours at a time, and puppies must be let out much more frequently for potty breaks. If you are going to be gone a long time, you should make arrangements for someone to come over and let your puppy out to relieve himself and get a little exercise. As your Dachshund gets older, he can stay in his crate for longer periods of time. Especially for a puppy, it is wise to have a radio on, tuned to a talk or classical music station. The continuous sounds will soothe your puppy and keep him company.

Get into the habit of telling your puppy or dog that he’s to be a good boy while you are away, and that you’ll be back. If you have time, warm up the car, then pop back into the house to tell him he’s a good boy and that you will be back. Repeat “be a good boy” and “I’ll be back” each time you leave the house. In a very short time, he will realize that you will indeed return.