Some of the signs of a skin disorder in your dog are skin rashes, hair loss, dry flaky skin and scabs. Dealing with skin problems affecting your dog is one of the more difficult problems for a dog owner. If your dog has any skin problems including dry or itchy skin, seborrhea dermatitis, flea bites, canine scabies, mange, ringworm, and bacterial and fungal infections. Finding relief for your dog is a major concern.

Sulfur , curcuma, zingiber and bergamot is a Thai home style formula that can be used to treat mange, eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, dermatitis, scabies and yeast infections. It also helps develop good and healthy skin and shiny coat.

Sulfur are needed to rebuild the damaged skin, with protection from lice, fleas, other external parasites, and many other skindisorders. Curcuma and zingiber also help to clean and smooth the skin. Bergamot juice helps to healthy and shiny coat.

Formula for 2 dogs (around 10 kgs.)
1. 1 tablespoon of sulfer
2. 1 tablespoon of curcuma powder
3. 1 tablespoon of zingiber powder
4. 2 bergamots

How to do
1. Mix each 1 tablespoon of sulfer, curcuma powder and zingiber powder

2. cut 2 bergamots in the half , squeeze for the juice and mix with the powder

3. put a small amount of water and stir until mixed

4. put this all over the dog’s body , specially the area that has diseases. Rub against the hair in order to put it directly to the skin. Be careful to prevent from the eyes.

5. leave it to dry around 1 hour and then take shower for the dog as usual

This can be done 1 times per week, and after a few weeks you will see that the symptom will be cured and your dog has better and healthier skin and coat.

If the dog has serious skin problem , you can put this everyday and leave it for 2-3 days before to take shower for your dog.

If the dog licks it from his skin, it’s ok. This is not dangerous because sulfur itself is needed in very small amount as the supplement. But DON’T let your dog eat it. (But my dogs don’t lick it, I think they don’t like the smell)

After the formula is well mixed, let it cool until it is slightly above room temperature. Always feed pups while they are resting on their stomachs. Never feed them upright or upside down as you would a human infant. Gently insert the nipple into the pup’s mouth using a prying motion while you apply pressure to the sides of the bottle to release a drop or two of milk. From then on the pup should suck on its own.

We all have a tendency to over feed puppies. But it is much safer to give them a little less than they are willing to drink. Over-feeding can lead to pneumonia when milk is inhaled into the lungs rather then swallowed into the stomach. It can also cause diarrhea.

It is much safer to feed smaller amounts more frequently than larger amounts less frequently. If milk bubbles out of your pup’s nose it is flowing too rapidly from the bottle. This is usually due to too large a hole(s) in the nipple or over feeding. I microwave a bowl of water and set the bottle in it after it comes out of the microwave to heat the formula to 99-100 degrees Fahrenheit before use.

Very rarely, a puppy will be born with a cleft palate. These puppies snort milk from their noses and must be tube-fed if you are planning to save them. (You need to think hard before you decide. Birth defects often come in multiples and this pup may have other life-ending defects.)

Some owners find it easier to feed very small newborn pups from a one or three milliliter syringe and switch to a bottle when the pup is two weeks old.

Boil pre-cleaned nursing bottles, syringes and utensils for 10 minutes between every use. Pop the plungers out of the syringes so the steam penetrates all around.

How Much Milk Should I Feed?

That is a very difficult question to answer because puppies arrive in so many sizes. Experienced breeders generally decide when to stop feeding based on the shape of the puppies stomach and its greediness to continue feeding rather than by giving a set amount of formula.

But I can give you some idea: When the powdered formula I suggested is mixed according to directions (one part formula powder to two parts water) ; each day the average puppy needs 25-35 milliliters of formula for every 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces) of body weight. Divide this number by the number of feedings per day to obtain the amount for each feeding. During week two, give 15-20 ml for every 100 grams body weight. During weeks three and four give 20 ml for every 100 grams body weight. These amounts are always only a rough estimate. Feed the puppy until its belly is gently rounded or pear-shaped – never more. As long as it is slowly but steadily gaining weight, everything is fine.

How Often Should I Feed ?
Feed very young puppies every 2-3 hours or six to eight feeding a day. Some people get up to give their puppy a midnight feeding but this is not necessary if you have a vigorous ,healthy pup.

By the time the puppy is three weeks old, 4 feedings per day are quite sufficient. At 5 weeks of age, the puppy should be eating some solid foods. At this age feed it formula 2-3 times a day – if at all. Puppies that are hungry and need feeding will whine continuously, move their heads from side to side and suckle on each other and on objects in the nest box.

Burping The Puppy

After each feeding hold the puppy upright with its tummy against your shoulder and pat it gently until it burps – releasing trapped air. Nursing bottles that do not release enough milk lead to more air being trapped that you need to release through burping. If the puppy should bloat or become colicky add a few drops of infant anti colic medicine (simethicone, Equate Infants’ Gas Relief, WalMart Stores Inc.) to the formula. If the problem persists, take the pup to a veterinarian.

Helping Your Puppy Eliminate
Normal puppy stools are yellowish brown with a jam-like consistency. After every feeding, gently massage the anus and urinary orifice with a cotton ball or Kleenex moistened with warm water until they urinate and defecate.

Be very gentle when you do this and don’t worry if no urine or stool is produced after every feeding. By the time the pup is three weeks old it should be able to go without your help.

Problems That Can Occur
If diarrhea occurs, add more pedialyte to the formula to make up for the fluid that is lost. You can even give feeding of pure pedialyte to allow the intestines time to heal. If this does not rapidly cure the problem, try a new rubber nipple and a different brand or container of milk replacement. If that does not quickly solve the problem, take the puppy to your veterinarian. Puppies fade and dehydrate rapidly, so serious diarrhea must not continue for more than a day.

When diarrhea is severe, your veterinarian may need to place the puppy on medications that slow the intestine and, perhaps,antibiotics. The pup will almost always also receive injections of subcutaneous fluids.

Puppies can also become dehydrated if their environment is too hot or dry. Two indicators of dehydration are loss of elasticity of the skin (the skin stays tented when it is gently pinched up) and decreased saliva production (the gums and tongue feel tacky or dry).

Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar can develop rapidly in a puppy that is not nursing. These puppies are limp, depressed, weak and they are cold to your touch. Their gums are often bluish and their muscles may twitch. Dextrose solution or corn syrup placed on their tongue is sometimes helpful, but their best chance at survival is in the intensive care setting of a veterinary center where dextrose can be administered intravenously or intralingually (in the tongue) 24 hours a day if need be.

Because newborn puppies can not regulate their temperature well, they are quite susceptible to chilling. If this should occur, the best way to warm them is to place them on a hot water bottle and gently blow them with a hair drier. (it is easy to burn puppies with human hair driers. Hold it far from the puppy and always have your hand in the air blast so you can gauged the amount of heat)

Stools that are clumped and cheese-like can be due to feeding the formula too concentrated. When puppies strain to defecate and pass overly-hard stools, increase the frequency of feeding and dilute the formula. Impacted pups also have bloated abdomens. You can give them a few drops of flavored mineral oil or cat hairball ointment to help them evacuate the stool. Never place amounts of unflavored laxative oils in a puppy’s mouth because they often inhale them rather than swallow. If they still remain bound up, take them to your veterinarian. They may need a warm water enema.

It is a good idea to worm your puppies with pyrantel pamoate when they are six weeks of age. You can purchase this worming medicine at WalMart Stores. (Products that state on the label that they contain piperazine are not sufficient. If you live Overseas, human infant pinworm medicine is usually parantyl pamoate. )

Fecal specimens from very young puppies with worms are often negative when they are checked microscopically. This is because veterinarians check for parasite eggs in the stool – not adult parasites. The adult parasites (hookworms & roundworms) in puppies can take a number of weeks before they produce telltale eggs.

If the puppies are kept isolated from other dogs their first vaccinations can be given at 12 weeks of age. If other unvaccinated dogs come in contact with the pup, the first vaccine should be administered at 6-8 weeks. The vaccine should immunize against canine distemper, canine hepatitis (adeno-2 virus), parvovirus and coronavirus. The most important booster vaccination of this puppies life will be the one it receives between 14 and 16 weeks of age. Be sure the vaccine is a reputable one (Merial, Pfizer, Intervet) and not a cheap product and that it is stored and administered correctly. (If you are raising puppies in or for a shelter, you have special challenges. I would be happy to talk to you about them, but they are not the subject of this article)

Never include leptospirosis in the vaccination of a puppy and think twice about giving it to mature dogs as well.

At 12 weeks the puppy should receive a rabies vaccination and at 14 and 18 weeks the pup should receive a booster of its first vaccination. After it receives it first birthday vaccinations, it should need no more distemper-parvo-corona vaccinations for many years to come. Some special-case dogs might require periodic adult lyme or leptospirosis vaccination but most don’t. How you handle rabies vaccination requirements is an administrative decision for normal house pets. Dogs in the US receive entirely too many vaccination. That is in the process of change. Adult dogs probably need boosters for distemper/parvo every 7 years or never. Most vets will stretch it to every 3 years. Read more about what vaccinations your pet really needs here.

Tube Feeding
I discourage tube feeding of puppies that will nurse a bottle because puppies need the companionship they get when we slowly feed them from a bottle. But puppies that are too weak to nurse will need to be tube fed. And people overworked with oodles of puppies need to keep their sanity.

It is difficult to explain this process in writing. The best way to learn how to tube feed is to have someone experienced in the technique do it with you the first time.

When I tube feed, I fill a 3 or 6 milliliter (cc) syringe with warm formula, being careful that no air bubbles are present. Then I attach an eighteen-gauge infusion (butterfly) set to the syringe. I snip off the needle and fill the remaining tubing with milk. Then I lay the tube along side the puppy and make a mark with an indelible pen on the tube when the tip is alongside the puppy’s last rib. Then I gently open the puppy’s mouth and begin to thread the tubing over the puppy’s tongue very slowly. This gives the pup time to swallow the tubing rather than have it go into the windpipe. If you are accidentally in the windpipe the pup will squirm and fuss.

When I think the tube is partially in place, with my thumb and index finger, I carefully palpate the puppy’s neck to feel two tube-like structures. One, in the center of the neck, will be the windpipe (trachea). The other will be the catheter tube. If I only feel one structure I remove the tube and reinsert it again until I am certain I am in the esophagus and not in the trachea. Then I slowly inject the contents of the syringe being sure the syringe is positioned not to inject air. When you are tube feeding, feed no more than 75% of what the puppy would have taken orally so it does not regurgitate the formula. Never grasp a full puppy by its abdomen.

Bathing Puppies
During their first 2 week of life it is best to just clean puppies with a damp pledget of cotton. Younger puppies should get only partial baths. Do one section of them at a time with a soft, wet hand towel.

When the “bath” is finished carefully blow dry the puppy. Be careful to keep the dryer far away from the puppy so as not to overheat it.

Check the underside and hind end of all puppies carefully for fleas when you groom them. Fleas can quickly get out of control. If you find any, pick them off with tweezers and drop them into some isopropyl alcohol or vodka. At the same time, throw away their nest box and put all reusable bedding through a hot air cycle in your drier.

Weaning
Between 3 and 4 weeks, puppies should begin accepting fine textured solid foods. By four and a half to five and a half weeks the puppy should be weaned. Purchase some cans of gourmet cat or dog food in chicken and beef flavors and smear a bit on the roof of the puppy’s mouth. It will soon get the idea. I do not feed puppies very pungent foods because I fear I will make them into fussy eaters later in life.

This is the same time you should begin to offer formula to the puppy in a bowel. The earlier puppies eat on their own the better. I do not suggest baby foods because they are too low in calcium and vitamins. This will cause weak teeth and bones. Although many puppies will eat as early as four weeks, some take an additional two or three weeks before they have much interest in solid food.

As soon as puppy chow is offered, keep a dish of water available. By the time the pup is 10 weeks old it should be receiving its puppy chow dry.

What Supplies Will I Need?

You will need to have a nest box for the puppy (s). Since the infants often soil their container, I usually find a small cardboard box that I can readily replace to keep the baby in. Pick up a few and replace them as need be. Just be sure nothing toxic was stored in them.

You will need a heating pad. I usually pick up a heavy-duty model at WalMart. Then I go to their aquarium section and purchase an aquarium thermometer. The ones that contain a red liquid are more accurate than the strip type. A feed store chick thermometer works well too. In the same section you will find pet nursing bottles and , if you are lucky, Pet-Ag’s Esbilac brand of canned puppy milk. You can also purchase Esbilac powdered puppy milk online and at veterinary offices and pet stores. Just be sure the container hasn’t sat around a long time and that it does not smell rancid when you first open the can. It should not have lumps and clumps in it. If it does – return it.

A small food scale is also very nice to have to weigh the infant(s). If the pup is weak you may want to tube feed it. I will get to that later, but you will need several 3-ml syringes and 18Guage butterfly infusion sets from a veterinary hospital or human medical supply center if you go that rout.

Delivering The Puppy

When puppies are born they are wrapped in a clear sac called the amniotic membrane. This membrane must be removed from the puppy’s face in order for it to breathe. I tear this membrane with my fingers and slide the whole puppy out. Then I use scissors to snip off the umbilical cord which connects the puppy’s belly button to the afterbirth. I leave about a half inch of cord attached to the puppy and tie it off with a piece of thread so it will not bleed. Moms just chew it off, so there is really no need to tie them. It is only a danger if the pup has any degree of umbilical hernia when it is born.

Then I use a rubber bulb to clean mucus away from the puppy’s mouth, throat and nose. The same one they sell for human infants.

Nest Box

The nest box does not need to be elaborate. It needs to be just big enough for the puppy to turn around but not much bigger. Be sure the sides are tall enough so that the puppy can not fall out. Line the box with clean bathroom hand towels, diapers discarded underclothes, etc. Be sure that there are no threads or holes in the material for the puppy to get tangled in.

To maintain temperature, keep a heating pad set at its lowest setting under one side of the box. Wrap the pad with sufficient bath towels so that the inside of the box stays at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit but no higher. Puppies housed at that temperature will themselves be a few degrees warmer – more so if more than one are huddled together.

With only one side of the box heated the puppy will be able to crawl away from the heat source if it gets too warm. Place the box in a draft free location. As the baby matures the temperature in the box can be gradually lowered. The heating pad will go under one side of the box , not in it. Young children delight in puppies. But they are not good for puppies. Secure the puppies area from children and other pets. Buy the kids a new stuffed puppy to raise just like Mom (or Dad) is doing.

Newborn puppies can not generate enough heat to keep their bodies warm and have not yet developed a shivering reflex. They will rely on you to regulate temperature during the first 14 days of their life. Normal rectal temperature for a newborn puppy is 94-98F. By their second week of life, rectal temperature should be 97-100F. By the fourth week normal rectal temperature is 100-102F (the same as adult dogs). The first thing to do with chilled puppies is to warm them up, very slowly, to 95 degrees F.

Orphan pups need an environmental temperature of about 90°F (32.2°C) their first week, in the mid 80′s the second week, and then in the mid 70′s. When the mother is there to keep the pups warm, additional temperature is unnecessary. When the pup reaches the end of its first month of life it will be happy in room air temperature of 70-75F.

Be very cautious using the heating pad since the puppy can be easily hurt by too high a temperature while it is still too young to move away from the heat source.

The First Milk Or Colostrum

Colostrum is the milk that the mother produces the first days after birth. It is very thick, yellowish-cream in color, and rich in antibodies that protect the puppy against disease. Puppies that do not drink colostrum during their first 12 -14 hours of life can not fight the diseases and bacteria they encounter as well as pups that do.

If your puppy could not nurse, giving it oral doses of blood serum or plasma from a healthy dog is one way to compensate for the lack of colostrum. After the first day, the puppy looses its ability to absorb most of the antibodies in colostrum. If your pup is older than that, the only effective way to give the blood product is by injection. When this is not done (and it is usually not done) you need to be especially sanitary when handling and feeding the puppy. It might also benefit from daily probiotics, yogurt or bene-bac paste. It is better to give small amounts of these products over long periods than a whole lot at once.

What To Feed The Puppy?

I prefer to feed puppies a powdered Esbilac formula that comes in powdered form and which I prepares just before use. The chief reason is that dry formula is more economical. But you can use their canned product initially. It is easier to find around town quickly.

I store opened canisters in the freezer. You can’t d freeze the cans of liquid because it causes the ingredients to separate out. Allow some time after mixing a batch for bubbles to leave the formula. Really blend the powder well, so no lumps or goop remains. You can keep reconstituted formula in the refrigerator between uses, but discard any remaining formula at the end of the day. Pour just what you need into a secondary container and put the remainder back in the fridge immediately.

If, in an emergency or some isolated location, you can not obtain puppy milk replacement you can mix a formula. It consists of one-half cup evaporated whole milk, one half cup boiled water, one teaspoon full of corn oil, one drop of pediatric multivitamin (Visorbin or equivalent), two raw egg yolks and a tablespoon full of plain whole yogurt. For some reason, formulas based on evaporated milk cause less diarrhea and indigestion than those based on fresh cow’s milk. Adding a quarter of a lactase tablet to each batch of formula helps the puppy digest the large amount of lactose present in cow’s milk. If it will be less than 24 hours before you can obtain a commercial puppy formula, you will be better off just giving healthy puppies pedialyte until then.

• the parents are good examples of their breed and are sound and healthy
• the blood lines are free from defects
• good homes can be found for the puppies
• the bitch is mature enough to breed from – usually the second of  third season is soon enough, depending on the breed
• you have suitable facilities for whelping and in which to keep the puppies until they are ready to go to new homes

Sexual maturity

Bitches only mate when they are “in season” (also known as “on hear”). They only have one oestrus in each breeding season (usually twice a year and lasting for around 21 days), during which they will accept a mating; this time occurs 10-14 days into the season, once her vaginal discharge turns from bloody to clear. This is unique as far as we know in the animal kingdom, and it means that there are only a few days in each season when the bitch can conceive.

A male, on the other hand, is always ready for mating when sexually mature. He will normally be indifferent to a bitch that is not in season, but will be attracted to her when her body release the chemical known as pheromones indicating her sexual condition. This happens a few days before she becomes sexually receptive, which explains why male dogs are so excited by bitches who are not yet ready to receive their advances and who may repulse them fiercely.

Most bitches reach puberty at about 6-7 months of age, but some may do so as early as 4 months, while others may not have their first season untill they are 2 years old. Bitches should not be bred from before they are a year old, as they are not mature enough physically; it is preferable to wait until they are 18 months old before mating them for the first time, If a potential breeding bitch has not had a season by the time she is 2 years old, seek veterinary advice.

Looking after the pregnant bitch

Apart from increasing her diet with food specially formulated for expectant bitches to cope with the demands being maid on her body, treat the mother as normal during pregnancy. As she becomes larger, she will slow down and become more reluctant to race around. Do not encourage her to jump about or run after toys. If she becomes constipated (a side-effect of pregnancy), substitute one of her daily meals with oily food such as pilchards or sardines, as this will aid the passing of motions.

Prepare a whelping site or box or place in it a quiet and undisturbed area of the house. Line the base with newspaper for insulation and place a thick layer of paper towel or washable “ver bed” fleece on top to make a soft, absorbent mattress for the birth. Show the bitch where the “nest” is, although bear in mind that she may ultimately choose her own preferred place.

With long haired bitches, clip hair surrounding the birth canal (to aid hygiene and easy of delivery)  and nipples (to facilitate easy of suckling). Sponge her anal area twice a day if she is carrying a large litter and is unable to do this herself. Make sure she is free of fleas and worms before and after birth, consult your vet regarding suitable treatment.

Labour and birth

Females give birth and raise their young following instinctive behavior patterns that allow them to do so unaided, although they do get better at this with practice. Labour and birth normally proceed easily. Once second stage labour begins (when the bitch goes into the whelping area or box and lies down), puppies are normally born around 20-60 minutes apart. Breeds with large heads, such as Bulldogs, generally need help to give birth, by Cesarean section, as they cannot do so naturally.

If you suspect that all is not well during whelping, with the bitch straining for longer than 60 minutes a result, contact your vet immediately as she may need help. Puppies should arrive head first; the hindquarters coming out first (breech presentation) could indicate a problem.

The miracle of birth

The gestation period in canine is 9 weeks (approximately 63 days). Movement of the foetuses can be felt from the seventh week of pregnancy.  As the birth nears, the bitch will begin to “nest” and seek  a private, preferably dark, safe place in which to give birth.

Once first stage labour starts, the bitch will pace around restlessly, whining or panting, and look behind her in an agitated and puzzled manner. There will usually be a clear or mucus like discharge from the vulva and the bitch will spend a good deal of time licking and cleaning herself. She will normally refuse food. The first stage can last for 24-48 hours.

As second stage labour begins, the bitch goes to her nesting place. Lies on her side and strains as uterine contractions move the puppies, one at a time, down the bitch canal.

After delivering puppy, the bitch cleans away the birth membranes covering it, thus allowing and stimulating it to breathe. The placenta, joined to the puppy by the umbilical cord, is then passed, and the bitch eats it, severing the cord a short way from the puppy’s body.

Once all the puppies are born, the bitch will clean herself, then settle down to suckle her babies, curling herself around them, and rest. If she will go outside to relieve herself, it will give you the chance to remove soiled bedding, and also to check visually that all the pups seem healthy and content (it is wise not to handle them for the first 2-3 days, particularly if it is the bitch’s first litter).

Birth problems
Occasionally, things do go wrong. If the bitch has been straining hard for over an hour without results, call out a vet immediately to help her give birth. Sometimes, for various reasons, puppies do not survive. If the bereaved bitch appears distressed, contact your vet for advice; the bitch may require medication to suppress her milk and help to prevent potential mastitis, or her loss may have a happy ending if the vet knows of orphaned puppies needing a foster mum. Other problems that can arise during pregnancy or following birth include the following (consult your vet immediately if any of these instances occur):

• Miscarriage due either to illness or because the foetuses are not healthy.
• Uterine infection after birth, indicated by high fever, vomiting, lack of appetite, and dark coloured, often smelly, vaginal discharge.
• Prolapsed uterus indicated by a swollen red mass appearing out of the vulva.

Mother care

During whelping, offer the bitch small drinks of water and glucose. Following birth, she will probably be extremely hungry and appreciate a light meal of egg and milk, or a meat and cereal broth. The bitch will eat and drink more than normal to maintain a plentful milk supply. Increase her food intake to around three times her usual amount, split into 3-4 meals a day. Her diet need to be rich in calcium, protein, vitamins and mineral to sustain her body’s need while lactating, plus she needs a constant and plentiful supply of fresh, clean water to ensure she produces enough milk.

Weaning

At 3-4 weeks, the puppies start to explore outside of the nest, and experiment with lapping at liquid foods (milk and cereal baby foods are best), and progressing at 4-5 weeks on to more solid nourishment –  choose food specially formulated for puppies to make sure they receive the nutrients their rapidly growing bodies need. To encourage the puppies to start eating solids, start with a saucer of tepid milk – wipe some around their muzzles with your finger, or gently dip their noses into it, to start them off lapping at it. Sas their milk ometimes it can take several attempts, but they get there in the end, so don’t force the puppies – if they don’t want it, try again the following day. Once they are lapping at the milk, then add cereal to eat -leaving it to soak and soften before giving it to the pups. Then progress onto meat based puppy food. Feed the puppies from shallow bowls so that they can get at the food easily. As they eat increasing amounts of solids, their excreta changes and their mother stops cleaning up after them – so now it is time to put newspaper down on the floor so you can easily clean up their excreta.

Bitches naturally wean their puppies themselves  gradually dries up 5-6 weeks after the birth. At this age, the puppies should be fully weaned on to solid puppy food, although they may still return to mum for the occasional comfort suckle if allowed. By 8 weeks, the puppies are usually fully independent of their mother regarding food and hygiene requirements, and are ready for rehoming.

Mastitis
Some bitches may suffer from mastitis due to a bacteria infection. Symptoms of this include hard , hot teats that produce bloodstained or abnormal-looking milk. The affected bitch will be off colour, and my vomit and have little or no appetite. Seek veterinary attention immediately so that the bitch can be appropriately  treated, and you can be shown how to hand strip her tears and hand rear puppies if necessary. If promptly treated, most cases of mastitis clear up within 36-48 hours.

Fear based aggression is the most common type of dog aggression found. A lack of broad and positive exposure to new people and different environments is the main reason why so many pet puppies become aggressive in adulthood. A dog that has been denied a well-rounded life with positive experiences and exposure to the world around him will be timid and fearful of strangers and find it difficult to cope with new environments.

Imagine if your entire life was confined to your house or apartment. Imagine what your own life would be like you only know 3 or 4 people! Strangers and strange place would be frightening. Quite possibly your reaction to new things and people would be one of fear, not knowing whether strangers were a threat to you. Too many pets live this type of unhappy life.

How can you spot it?
The goal of fear or defensive aggression is protection in the face of a perceived threat. That is to say, the dog must show enough aggression to frighten away what is causing itself to be afraid. If Buddy is afraid of the mailman, he must show enough aggression to cause the mailman to flee. For that reason, fear aggression is one of the nastier looking and threatening types of aggression a dog can display. All the bells and whistles will be going – growling, barking, showing of fangs, the dog’s fur will be standing up and there will be some genuine attempts to keep the threat back with snaps and bites.

A dog showing aggression from fear will commonly begin showing his feelings with a low growl and the baring of his teeth. This is warning that he feels uncomfortable and afraid in the situation. If the perceived threat continues to advance, and there is no possible way of escape, he will begin growling and snapping or even biting.

Dogs showing fear and defensive aggression will commonly shrink themselves into a ball. The ears will be flattened back on the dogs head. Often times the dog will turn his head away from the threat but still be watching it from the corner of his eye. Hackles may be raised, the tail will be tucked in. The facial expression is punched and they may salivating or licking their own lips and nose.

Fear bites are usually “cheap shots” – bites below the belt and commonly aimed at the back of legs. The bites themselves are quick nips followed by an immediate withdrawal. Fear bites lack the confidence and follow-through one would fine in bites made by dominate dog or one trained to bite. In fear, the dog will thrust itself out only slightly to deliver the bite and then will immediate retract and attempt an escape. The bite is almost always accompanied by snarls and growls. Many fear bites are halfhearted and don’t penetrate the skin because the goal of this type of aggression is not subdue or subjugate but only to cause fear and withdrawal of the perceived threat.

The underlying cause
Unfortunately, many puppies do not get the exposure they need to grow into emotionally stable adult canines. The lack of pet-friendly parks, people with their hectic schedules and the confines spaces of the city can add up to unexposed and unstable pets.

It is crucial to get your puppy exposed to the big world he lives in. Take him out to see new places, have dinner parties with your friends to expose him to lots of people. Whatever you do to get your puppy out into the world – take the time, take the effort. You will be rewarded with a stable and happy adult dog in the future.

Even the most sociable dogs can be forced into a situation where aggression is their only choice. When a dog feels trapped or threatened, without any option to flee, there is potential to become aggressive. When cornered and feeling that there is danger approaching, a dog will sometimes defend itself with a low growl, baring on fangs, or even lashing out with a quick snap or bite. An injured dog – even when normally friendly and sociable – makes snap or shows fear aggression if he feels threatened or is approached when in pain. When a dog is surprised by someone’s sudden approach, he may feel there is not time to get away and that showing aggression is the best method of defense.

The cure
Prevention is the best medicine. Take your puppy outdoors and around with you, throw dinner parties on his behalf, and enroll your puppy in the training class. Even older dogs can benefit from more exposure. Walks around the blocks open up the world to your dog and will give him confidence in uncomfortable situations. Slow and small amount of exposure to new things in a controlled environment will allow your dog to see that there is no danger in strange places or new people.

If you must handle a dog that is fearful, ensure that they always have the ability to “escape”. Trapping the fearful dog will almost always bring out aggression. A tight leash will restrain the dog and put him on the defense. Allow the dog a way to get out of a situation that is frightening.

What about when we need grooming or a vet visit? When the surroundings of the dog are calm his fear will be eased. When the people around your dog are nervous and fearful themselves, their signals will cause your dog’s fear to increase. Muzzling your dog when he is afraid is a good idea. Even though the restraint of a muscle may cause a bit more fear in him, everyone around your dog will be safe and relaxed and his fear will decreased.

To cure an older dog of his fears, you must introduce the perceived threat in a way that allow him to gently discover that there is no harm. As an example, if Rover is afraid of the vacuum cleaner, he should be allowed to explore it without it switched on, or explore it piece by piece. Perhaps, building the positive connection between the vacuum cleaner and something he likes would help diminish the fear or give him enough confidence to explore (such as put the vacuum near his food bowl or rewarding with treats when he approaches the vacuum). Jasper the Rottweiler was cured of his fear of sticks by placing sticks nearer and nearer his food bowl, each day getting closer until his dish was surrounded by sticks of all kinds and sizes. Concurrently, his owners were instructed to carry sticks around with them in the house and they eventually progressed to petting him with them.

By gently introducing the perceived threat and showing the dog that is it not actually going to harm him, he will overcome his fear and the aggression that is connected. The fear will reduced and eventually disappear completely. The time it takes to overcome fears mostly depends on how many deeply affected.

Socialize your puppy at an early age. Introduce new things in an nonthreatening, calm way. When possible, allow your dog a route to escape from a perceived threat. If your dog reacts to fear with aggression, ensure the safety of those around him by muzzling at the vet or groomers.

When an older dog suffers from fear, try to introduce him to perceived threat in a slow and nonthreatening way. Try building an association between the fearful person or object with something the dog already likes.

The American Heritage Dictionary of the English language defines aggression in this way:
“1.The act of initiating hostilities or invasion. 2.The practice or habit of launching attacks. 3.Hostile or destructive behavior or actions.”

You might think of aggression as the positive ability to attack challengers in life, or the confidence and determination you use to achieve your goals. In other words, aggression is not always a bad thing. That is particularly true in the case of dog aggression. If we can look past the human emotional connection, we can see dog aggression for what it really is: a means of protections, discipline within the pack and guarding important resources such as food or territory. If a dog has no aggression, he will get bullied and hurt and driven from the safety of his territory. If he has no aggression he will not be able to fight off challenges for his food and would then starve.

The problem enters when the dog’s aggression is misplaced or misdirected. When a dog bites his owner, we are actually seeing a breakdown in the relationship between pet and caregiver. When a dog shows aggression towards strangers, we are seeing a misplaced reaction to the unknown.

Dog aggression can not be lumped into one type – there are many reasons for aggression and each one has its own motivation, its own look and its own method of handling. In this series we will study certain aspects of the five major types of dog aggression: the underlying cause, the indications and the cure.

Fear and Defensive Aggression
Has your dog ever snapped out at someone or something that was strange to them? That is Fear Aggression. The aggression is based on a fear of the unknown and used for self protection.

Dominance Aggression
Have you ever been bitten by your own dog? Aggression is used as disciplinary action with lower members of the pack and is major cause of being bitten by your own dog.

Territorial Aggression
Does your dog bark and chase people away from your home? Have you ever seen dogs behind gates who are aggressive? Have ever seen your dog become aggressive when you try to remove a bowl of food or toy from him? This is territorial aggression.

Idiopathic Aggression
Some breeds have been known to become aggressive for no apparent reason. This is the genetic basis of aggression and, while “Idiopathic” may mean “cause unknown” , we will get the details of which breeds and how often this type of aggression shows up in dogs.

Trained Aggression
You’ve seen police or army dogs at work apprehending criminals. May be you’ve seen working dog trail. These dogs have been trained to attack or to defend their owners. How safe are these dogs? What is their motivation and are they “angry” or are they just following orders? We will study this type of aggression in full.

Watching a Dachshund field trial is a great way to observe the Dachshund’s independent nature in action. In Dachshund field trials, Dachshunds compete in pairs to follow the scent of a rabbit. (The rabbit isn’t caught or killed; usually, it isn’t even seen by the dogs.) When the dogs catch the scent, or line, of the rabbit, the handlers aren’t allowed to intervene in any way to direct the Dachshunds. The dogs must trail the scent all on their own, followed by the watchful judges who determine which Dachshunds are most capable of following the trail.

In other words, Dachshunds — even the Minis — were made to perform reliably and intelligently without too much human intervention. Therefore, the best way to get through to a Dachshund so that she can learn your house rules and what you desire from her is to learn how to speak her language.

Dachshunds Can’t Obey What They Don’t Understand
If only you could tell your Dachsie, “Listen here, Gertrude. When you feel the urge to eliminate, please let me know ahead of time and I’ll let you outside.” Or, “This is the deal, Otto. When I say ‘Sit,’ you plant your rump on the ground and stay there. And when I say ‘Come,’ you run right over here as fast as you can. If you do, I’ll really like it a lot.”
Sadly, dog training isn’t that easy. But it isn’t too hard, either. The first thing you have to realize is that your Dachshund doesn’t speak English. Okay, sure, you know that. But have you really considered what it means? It means that your Dachshund isn’t being defiant the first time you say “Sit” and she just stares at you with a look that says, “What planet are you from?” She just doesn’t know what you’re talking about. Her mother didn’t tell her to Sit. How is she supposed to understand? And, even if your Dachshund has learned “Come” in the living room, she may not understand that when she smells a juicy squirrel dashing through the park and runs madly after it and you shriek “Come!” hysterically that you expect the same response as you did in the living room. (And no matter how much you practice, your Dachshund may still chase that squirrel, so keep her leash on outside!) Teaching your Dachshund what behavior you expect when you say certain words takes work and plenty of consistent practice. It also takes a certain degree of showing before the telling alone will work. Never hold a grudge against your Dachshund. After a few seconds, your dog will have no idea what you’re angry about. Dogs live in the present, and they only know that you’re angry. If you decide to punish your pup for chewing your shoe by keeping her locked up for two hours or by ignoring her all day, your punishment will be ineffective and even destructive, because your Dachshund will learn to fear you or avoid you rather than listen to you.

Communicating with Your Dachshund
How do you talk Dachshund? First, you have to see the world from your Dachshund’s point of view. Imagine that you’re a Dachshund, scampering around about 8 inches off the ground. You’ve suddenly been uprooted from the home you knew, and here you are in a strange place with a strange creature who towers above you and keeps uttering strange, undecipherable sounds. The creature seems very nice, offering food and petting you. The voice sounds well-intentioned, and sometimes you get treats.
But sometimes the voice gets mad, irritated, and scary. Sometimes the creature appears dangerous, waving his or her arms wildly and yelling. Sometimes the yelling seems to be at you, but you can’t imagine why. You want to do whatever will make the creature talk nicely, and you sure want some more of those treats. If only you knew what to do to elicit that behavior from your creature! Oh well, you may as well go on exploring your new environment, relieving yourself when you have to and chewing on whatever you find that looks tempting. After all, this is what dogs do; you don’t have any other instructions at least none you can understand. To get through to this uneducated and independent-minded little Dachshund, you have to be very specific in your rewards. The moment she does something good, praise her, pet her, even give her the occasional treat. When she’s naughty, redirect her to the right activity (hand her a chew toy, move her to her outdoor bathroom, and so on) without making any fuss. Ignore her until she does the right thing again and then heap on the praise. Now she’ll get the message. Don’t just praise your dog when she does something you ask her to. Also praise her when she does something well or right when you didn’t ask. Constant positive reinforcement of good behavior is integral to developing a good relationship with your Dachshund. If you spend the whole day yelling “No!” and “Bad dog!” but never rewarding your Dachshund for the things she does right, she won’t learn the self-confidence that’s so important to a well-trained and happy pet. And she certainly won’t learn what you want her to.

Staying calm and upbeat
If you want to relate to your Dachshund, the most important thing you can do is stay positive. Getting angry when your Dachshund eats your loveseat or leaves a puddle on your antique quilt is understandable, but it won’t do any good. Leave the room, get angry, get over it, come back, and resolve not to let it happen again, because (and you may not want to hear this) the whole thing was your fault anyway. Dachshunds aren’t malicious. They don’t hold grudges. Your Dachshund isn’t trying to wreck your stuff or disobey you. When she does something wrong (wrong according to your rules), it’s only because she didn’t understand that the behavior is unacceptable.

If you’re always (or at least usually) calm, positive, upbeat, and happy when teaching your Dachshund the rules, as well as the fun things you and she can do together, she’ll get your meaning much more quickly. Dachshunds are all about reward. What can they do to get one, and what can they do to get another one? It’s that simple. Yelling isn’t a reward. A slap on the rump isn’t a reward. Rubbing her nose in an accident is most certainly not a reward. But a treat? A pat? A walk? An enthusiastic “What a good,
sweet, darling little puppy dog you are!”? Now those are rewards that allow you to relate to a Dachshund.

A dog’s personality usually depends on the breed of the dog. For instance, herding dogs such as the Border Collie or a Jack Russell terrier have a lot of energy. This means they may need more exercise than a lower-energy dog like a pug. Dogs enjoy the company of other dogs. Walking is important because it allows dogs to meet other dogs. Many communities, such as cities where there may not be a lot of green space, have established special dog parks. They are enclosed outdoor spaces meant just for dogs and their owners. Dogs can be unleashed and are free to run and play with other dogs. Dog owners can enjoy meeting other dog owners, too. Most domestic dogs do not have to worry about predators. But in areas near forests or other wilderness regions, wild animals can be a threat. Dogs, especially small ones, have been killed by wild animals such as coyotes, wolves, bears, and mountain lions. People who live in areas where these wild animals have been seen should keep a close eye on their pets and not let them roam outside their yard. Pets should be kept indoors at night in order to avoid being stalked by predators at that time.

Dogs and people have been getting along as good friends for a long time. Most of us require nothing more from our “best friends” than a wagging tail and a lot of love. But there are many dogs that do much more to earn their keep and their masters’ love. Sporting dogs—including pointers, retrievers, and setters—help hunters find game birds and then fetch or retrieve them. Hounds with their keen sense of smell can also aid hunters. Dogs help law enforcement agencies to sniff out drugs and other illegal goods that people carry with them into airports and other places. Saint Bernards help search for and rescue people in trouble. Alaskan huskies pull sleds carrying people and goods in the frozen northern part of the world. Doberman pinschers guard homes and property against intruders.

German shepherds and other super-intelligent dogs work as Seeing Eye dogs, guiding blind and visually impaired people. Collies herd animals such as cattle and sheep. Terriers were once used to catch rodents.

Most people treat their dogs well, but some people mistreat and abuse dogs. A mistreated dog may become dangerous to other people. It might attack or bite without warning. It is not the dogs that are bad; it is people who train them to do bad things. Other people think they are being good to their dogs when they are actually being cruel. Such people allow their dog to mate with another dog and have babies. Because of this, many unwanted dogs are brought into the world each year. Many of these dogs are abandoned to live on the streets, and they become a public nuisance and a health hazard. Many abandoned dogs end up in animal shelters. If nobody adopts these dogs within a certain time period, they are put to sleep and destroyed. Millions of dogs in the United States face this fate each year.

Veterinarians and animal rights organizations strongly recommend that new dog owners have their dogs operated on at an early age to prevent them from having babies. In females, this simple operation is called spaying, and in males it is called neutering. The operation not only helps control the dog population but also benefits the dog. He or she stays calmer, less aggressive, and often healthier in old age than dogs without the operation. All these things make for a better family pet. Keeping a dog is a big responsibility. It requires patience, love, and hard work. But what you get in return is a friend for life.

Vaccinations
Vaccinations protect your puppy from canine parvovirus, distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, and rabies, as well as diseases that may be more prevalent in your area (such as coronavirus and Lyme disease). One of the most important things you can do to keep your puppy healthy is to get her vaccinated first at 5 to 6 weeks of age. If you buy your Dachshund from a breeder, she should’ve had the first one or two vaccinations done already. Continue to vaccinate your puppy according to the regular schedule
suggested by your veterinarian. Different vets will recommend certain vaccinations at certain stages, so talk to your vet about when your puppy needs which vaccines. Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious viral disease that comes in a diarrheal form and a cardiac form. If not treated, it’s usually fatal — especially for puppies. Distemper is another highly contagious? and often fatal viral disease that causes severe neurological damage in its advanced stages. Hepatitis is a highly contagious virus that begins with a fever and can end in coma and death.

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that can cause death or severe kidney, liver, and digestive tract damage. It can also be transmitted to humans, along with rabies. A debate is ongoing about vaccinations. Many people claim that pets are overvaccinated and that some of the vaccines from the first year last longer than vets previously thought. That could be. Others claim that serious diseases can result from vaccinations.
That may also be true, especially with vaccinations of older dogs. But for puppies, that first year’s vaccination schedule is crucial. You can talk to your vet about how often your dog needs booster shots after the first year, and you can work out a schedule of lessfrequent vaccinations later, but please don’t neglect these initial vaccinations.

The one vaccine required by law is the rabies vaccine, so even if you’re anti-vaccine, you’re required to have proof of this one. You must show this proof to license your dog, board her in a kennel, and sometimes even to get veterinary care. Nobody wants to risk rabies, so be diligent about the rabies vaccine. Many places, like boarding kennels, doggy daycare, and even dog parks, require proof of other vaccinations, too. Unless your dog has a serious health problem and your vet advises against the vaccines, there really is no reason to ignore the first year of vaccinations. That’s not to say that vaccinations don’t involve risk. In rare cases, animals react adversely to vaccinations. The most serious reaction, an anaphylactic reaction, usually occurs in the first 15 to 60 minutes.

This can lead to sudden cardiac arrest, so keep a close eye on your puppy for the first hour after a vaccination. Other less-severe reactions can happen later, from general fatigue, discomfort, and loss of appetite to a local infection at the site of the vaccination. The chances your Dachshund will have a reaction are extremely slim, though, and most vets agree that the benefits of vaccination far outweigh the risks. But always watch your Dachshund carefully for a week or so after vaccines. If your Dachshund changes her behavior or gets ill in any way following a vaccination, call your vet immediately.

Some people suggest that puppies should never be around other dogs until all vaccinations are complete. But what about puppy obedience classes? If you bring your puppy to obedience classes at 3 or 4 months of age, be sure to choose a class that requires all puppy owners to show proof of vaccination. You should be okay. Better to have a well-trained puppy and take the very small risk that something may get passed around. Not training or socializing your puppy is a bigger risk because you’ll be more likely to give your Dachshund away when she gets to be too much trouble. Besides, your Dachshund will already have a few rounds of vaccinations under her belt, and she’s already working on building up her natural immunity — now she can build up her good manners!

Sterilization
Do you want to become a Dachshund breeder? Are you ready to devote most of your waking hours to the intense and often heartbreaking efforts of breeding, whelping, and raising, as well as studying to improve the health and temperament of Dachshunds? Are you ready to barely break even when you sell the puppies, to take back any puppy for any reason, to remain committed to every dog out of litter after litter, and to watch puppies fail to thrive and die in your arms?

If not, please sterilize your Dachshund. We are in the midst of a crisis in this country. Pet overpopulation is out of control, and the number of animals euthanized each year is staggering and saddening. According to Spay USA, every day 10,000 humans are born in the United States. In the same time frame, 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. The fact is, Dachshunds like to run, dig, and escape. Even under the best of conditions, your Dachshund could get free. If a female does, she could easily come home pregnant. If a male does, he could easily impregnate the neighbor’s champion Shih Tzu. You could end up with a litter of unwanted puppies on your hands — how will you find homes for them? At worst, your neighbor could take you to court.

Sterilization doesn’t cost much. In fact, many humane societies offer vouchers to make the procedure even cheaper; give your local society a call. Sterilization also is very safe for dogs. There’s a slight risk to any dog that undergoes general anesthesia, but almost all dogs come out of it just fine. Sterilization can even improve the behavior of dogs, and health benefits come with early sterilization (such as a reduced incidence of mammary tumors and fewer prostate problems). I can’t think of any reason why you wouldn’t want to sterilize your Dachshund, unless you specifically bought a specimen to serve as the foundation of a breeding program. In this case, you’ve made the full-fledged commitment to be the best breeder you can be.

Pest control
No matter where you live, and no matter how often you keep your Dachshund inside, your pup probably will have some contact with some kind of pest. Fleas are everywhere, for instance, and in the southern states and parts of California, fleas have established a comfortable and prolific year-round existence.
Ticks are everywhere, too, in the wooded areas of most states. Lyme disease — a serious and sometimes fatal disease spread by the deer tick — has been detected in 47 of 50 states. People can catch it, too, and become seriously debilitated by it. Many puppies, no matter how well they’re bred, are born with intestinal worms, and Dachshunds can easily pick up worms at any time during their lives. Mites that infect the ears or the skin abound, causing mange and other painful skin problems. Heartworms, dastardly critters, can kill your Dachshund by taking up residence in her blood vessels, lungs, or heart after transmission from a single mosquito bite. In other words, pest control is something every pet owner must deal with. Pests come in many forms, and none of them are any fun. But each of them can be dealt with easily, as long as you practice a little prevention and address any pest problem as soon as you detect it:
Fleas: Fleas are uncomfortable for your Dachshund and can cause complications ranging from severe allergic reactions to tapeworms. You probably won’t be too fond of fleas jumping on and off your arms and legs either, and if your Dachshund isn’t close by, the fleas will be happy to bite you. In rare cases, fleas can even infect humans with bubonic plague. Yikes!
Flea solutions: Prevention is the best solution. Apply a spot-on adulticide flea treatment (ask your vet for a recommendation) every month during flea season. A few drops
between your dog’s shoulder blades will kill the fleas that land on your Dachshund, even before they have a chance to bite. You can also treat your dog with an oral insect-growth-regulator treatment once a month all year round. Any flea that does bite your dog won’t be able to hatch any eggs, and the flea reproduction cycle will be halted before it can start. Leading parasitologists are recommending the oral protein Lufenuron as the core to flea control with topical to kill adult fleas if you see them, due to the inevitable resistance fleas are developing to topical agents. Ask your vet which flea products are best for your Dachshund. And don’t forget a thorough vacuuming around the house, along with washing your dog’s bedding in hot water — if you see any fleas. This combined approach should take care of the problem pretty quickly.
Ticks: Ticks can pass on severe diseases. The notorious Lyme disease is just one of many. Ticks are always dangerous when you walk with your Dachshund in wooded areas. They range in size, but sometimes the very smallest, barely visible ticks are the most dangerous.
Tick solutions: Please don’t try to burn off ticks or yank them out carelessly with your bare hands. You could injure your dog or cause an infection if tick parts get left under the skin; you could even infect yourself if the tick bursts and the blood gets on you. Instead, use a spot-on product made to kill ticks if you go out in tick-infested areas with your Dachshund. If your Dachshund does get a tick and you find it during your daily grooming session, pull it straight out slowly with tweezers or with your fingers (wear rubber gloves or use a tissue). If your Dachshund shows signs of listlessness, fatigue, and loss of appetite, Lyme disease could be the culprit. See your vet right away.
Worms: Roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms can cause a variety of symptoms, ranging from diarrhea and vomiting to weight loss, severe fatigue, pneumonia, and even death. If you aren’t thinking “Yuck!” at the very thought of worms, read on. Roundworms look like thin spaghetti, curled in your dog’s feces. Tapeworms look like 1?4- to 1?2-inch wiggly segments in your dog’s poop or on the skin or hair around the rectum. Hookworms penetrate your Dachshund’s skin, and the eggs can be detected under a microscope in your Dachshund’s feces. Whipworms look like 1-inch threads.
Worm solutions: Have every new puppy you adopt dewormed, usually a few times. In many cases, good breeders have this done for new pet owners. Have your vet check fecal samples a few times because worms can shed eggs intermittently, so a negative sample doesn’t always mean your puppy doesn’t have intestinal worms. To prevent reinfection, always keep your yard free of dog feces, and keep your Dachshund from sniffing poop from other dogs on walks. Many worms are transmitted when your Dachshund eats, or even sniffs, the feces of another dog (including your own dogs). A fence will help to keep stray dogs and their remains out of your yard. Once or twice a year throughout your Dachshund’s life, continue to have your vet do a fecal examination to check for the ongoing presence or arrival of worms.
Mites: Mites cause severe itching and a variety of unpleasant and unattractive skin conditions — sometimes referred to collectively as mange. Some mites infect your Dachshund’s ears; others live in her skin. Suspect ear mites if your Dachshund shakes her head a lot and scratches at her ears. Dark earwax is another sign. Scabies is a skin condition caused by a mite, and humans can get it, too. Scabies itches and often results in hair loss. Chiggers are tiny, red mites that live in wooded areas and burrow under your dog’s skin, causing itching and redness. Other types of mites cause puppy dandruff, mild itching, and hair loss, and some live in the hair follicles and infects them.
Mite solutions: See your vet to acquire various types of creams, drops, dips, or shampoos, depending on the type of mite he finds. And don’t wait. Your Dachshund won’t enjoy being bald and itchy.
Heartworms: Heartworms are transmitted from mosquitoes and, if left untreated, will kill your Dachshund. They travel to your dog’s heart and mature there, reaching lengths of up to 12 inches. A dog with heartworms can be treated (the treatment isn’t cheap), but if the heartworms are too advanced, it may be too late.
Heartworm solutions: First and foremost, prevent, prevent, prevent. Give your Dachshund a heartworm pill on schedule every single month, all year round — or always during mosquito season — for her entire life. Even if your Dachshund doesn’t go outside for very long, she can still get a mosquito bite. In fact, indoor-only Dachshunds have contracted heartworm from mosquitoes that got in the house. Also, avoid mosquito-infested areas whenever possible; use a product designed to repel mosquitoes on dogs when you must. (Don’t use your human bug spray on your dog, however.) Heartworm pills are great for preventing heartworms, but if your Dachshund already has heartworms, a heartworm pill could be fatal. Always have your Dachshund tested for heartworms before beginning heartworm pills. Most vets recommend a yearly test just before mosquito season. Never neglect this yearly test because an extra year or two carrying around a heartworm population could make a big difference in how treatable the problem will be.

Also, although a Dachshund is small, he has a pretty big mouth, and I don’t just mean he barks a lot. He can also chew to the point of major destruction. Really. No two ways about it, Dachshunds love to chew. In fact, they not only love it, but they also consider it their dog-given right. Your Dachshund will consider anything that looks chewable to be his own personal property. So you thought that slipper was yours? Think again. As far as your new puppy is concerned, if he sees it and decides he wants to chew it, it’s his.

The best way to combat the loss of some of your more valuable pairs of shoes, not to mention your furniture, is to have a good one is always within reach. Look for sturdy chew toys without small parts that could break off. If you’re consistent about enforcing the house rules, your new puppy will soon learn what is okay to chew and what isn’t. Then, eventually, he’ll develop enough selfcontrol to stop himself from chewing that juicy-looking, brand-new sneaker.

Avoid giving your Dachshund cat toys, even if you have a Mini. Dachshunds are more enthusiastic chewers than cats and they have larger mouths and stronger jaws. Cat toys often have small pieces like bells, feathers, or felt that a Dachshund can easily swallow or choke on. The best way to discourage this sort of destruction in the early stages is to offer a firm “No” when your Dachshund is in the process of chewing or clawing; then immediately redirect him to an acceptable but similar activity. For example, if your Dachsie is chewing your shoe, say “No!” and then take away the shoe, replacing it with a chew toy in his mouth. If he chews the chew toy, heap on the praise.

If you have a piece of furniture or other object that your Dachshund just won’t leave alone, buy a bottle of chew-deterrent spray, like Bitter Apple brand spray, and follow the directions. This spray makes the object taste horrible, and your Dachshund will probably learn quickly to leave it alone. If this doesn’t work, you may also try wrapping the area in aluminum foil or keeping a spray bottle filled with water on hand to deter the behavior. Or you can keep a can filled with pennies nearby to startle your Dachshund away from the forbidden area.

If you have a digger, you may want to consider purchasing a few carpet squares or remnants that are reserved for your Dachshund. He can dig and scratch on them to his heart’s content. If he scratches and digs on your carpet or wall, move him immediately to his carpet — even help move his paws in a digging motion over it. If he gets it, praise him for all you’re worth. He’ll get the idea . . . eventually.

Poisons
Want another thing to worry about with a chew-happy puppy? Poisons. Even if you keep the drain cleaner and the bleach out of reach, plenty of other household items and substances can poison your puppy, from ibuprofen (like Advil) or aspirin tablets to rotten food in your trashcan. Here are some common household poisons that you should keep well out of reach from your puppy:
- Cleaners of all types. Some are more toxic than others, but who wants to wait and see which ones may be okay?
- All human and pet medication. Even if you’re not sure that a specific medicine is toxic to pets, keep them all out of reach.
Some medications, such as ibuprofen (Advil), are highly toxic to pets.
- Pesticides of any type. Even your pet’s flea control product can be toxic if gobbled up. Don’t let your puppy play with or chew any insect traps or bait, like rat, mouse, or roach traps.
- Certain foods. Dogs can be poisoned by chocolate, onions, grapes or raisins, and even sugarless gum. Even small amounts can be fatal.
- Some houseplants. They’re poisonous to varying degrees. Keep your plants above Dachshund level.
- Some miscellaneous items. Many seemingly innocuous items can be extremely toxic to a dog, such as potpourri oil, coffee grounds, fabric softener sheets, dishwashing detergent, batteries, cigarettes, and alcohol.
While doing poison control, don’t forget the yard. Keep your puppy off the lawn if you’ve recently sprayed it with insecticides or fertilizer. Keep all lawn and garden chemicals out of reach (not to mention sharp objects). Keep your puppy out of the garage, too. Gasoline, oil, and antifreeze can kill your puppy. Also, the following common outdoor plants are poisonous to dogs:
-Azalea
-Oleander
-Castor bean
-Sago palm
-Yew plant
One tablespoon of antifreeze can kill a 20-pound dog, so imagine how little it would take to harm your Mini Dachshund. Antifreeze smells and tastes yummy to dogs. So Dachs-proof your garage and driveway in the winter by keeping antifreeze out of reach. Even leaking or spilled puddles on the driveway can mean death to your dog. (Note that you can now buy antifreeze that’s advertised as
safer for pets, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t still do everything you can to keep your pet away from it.)

The Stairs
A big thing to consider when Dachs-proofing your home is how to make your stairs Dachshund-friendly. Stairs are hard on Dachshund backs, especially for the Minis because each step is a lot bigger to a 7-pound dog than to a 30-pound dog. If you have stairs in your home, that’s no reason to give up your Dachshund dreams. But you do need to take a few precautions. If you have the space and the resources, a ramp is great for Dachshunds. A ramp is most practical outside, where you can offer
your dog an alternate route off the deck. The problem is that some Dachshunds ignore that carefully constructed ramp and take the stairs anyway. (Some gladly use the ramp, though. You just never
know.)

You can install a gate so the ramp is the only way down for your pet, but now you’re getting pretty fancy. Some gates, made for small children or pets, bolt onto walls or decks and have an easyopen
swinging mechanism for the convenience of adults. This option is worth it if you can afford it, but it’s not for everyone.

Inside is a different story. Most people don’t have the space to build a ramp over half their staircase. The best solution is to install those pet gates (or baby gates) at the top and bottom of all staircases.
The newer ones bolt to the wall and swing open so you don’t have to take the whole gate off to go up and down. Most can be operated easily with one hand. Then, when your Dachsie has to go upstairs, you can pick him up and carry him. And when he’s ready to go back down? Pick him up and carry him again.

Some people aren’t willing to do this task, of course, and others argue that Dachshunds are built to be natural athletes and should be able to climb stairs. I won’t argue. Some Dachsies race up and down the stairs all day long, every day, and never suffer from a back problem. Others may develop back problems, and you won’t know whether or not it had anything to do with daily jaunts up and down your staircase.

Deciding whether or not your Dachsie is allowed to climb the stairs comes down to risk assessment. Going up and down stairs can be hard on those Dachshunds who’ll probably have back problems anyway, and climbing the steps may trigger an incident. Other dogs, though, will be fine. You can play it safe but expend more effort, or you can expend a lot of effort to prevent something that may never happen. As long as you recognize that you’re taking responsibility for your pet, you can make the decision.