Aggression defined

By
18
Feb 2011

Consider the human emotion connected to aggression: anger, hate, fury. It’s no wonder that our reaction to dog aggression is somewhat confused. For dogs, and many other animals, aggression is method by which self, the pack, the sources of survival and discipline are preserved.

The American Heritage Dictionary of the English language defines aggression in this way:
“1.The act of initiating hostilities or invasion. 2.The practice or habit of launching attacks. 3.Hostile or destructive behavior or actions.”

You might think of aggression as the positive ability to attack challengers in life, or the confidence and determination you use to achieve your goals. In other words, aggression is not always a bad thing. That is particularly true in the case of dog aggression. If we can look past the human emotional connection, we can see dog aggression for what it really is: a means of protections, discipline within the pack and guarding important resources such as food or territory. If a dog has no aggression, he will get bullied and hurt and driven from the safety of his territory. If he has no aggression he will not be able to fight off challenges for his food and would then starve.

The problem enters when the dog’s aggression is misplaced or misdirected. When a dog bites his owner, we are actually seeing a breakdown in the relationship between pet and caregiver. When a dog shows aggression towards strangers, we are seeing a misplaced reaction to the unknown.

Dog aggression can not be lumped into one type – there are many reasons for aggression and each one has its own motivation, its own look and its own method of handling. In this series we will study certain aspects of the five major types of dog aggression: the underlying cause, the indications and the cure.

Fear and Defensive Aggression
Has your dog ever snapped out at someone or something that was strange to them? That is Fear Aggression. The aggression is based on a fear of the unknown and used for self protection.

Dominance Aggression
Have you ever been bitten by your own dog? Aggression is used as disciplinary action with lower members of the pack and is major cause of being bitten by your own dog.

Territorial Aggression
Does your dog bark and chase people away from your home? Have you ever seen dogs behind gates who are aggressive? Have ever seen your dog become aggressive when you try to remove a bowl of food or toy from him? This is territorial aggression.

Idiopathic Aggression
Some breeds have been known to become aggressive for no apparent reason. This is the genetic basis of aggression and, while “Idiopathic” may mean “cause unknown” , we will get the details of which breeds and how often this type of aggression shows up in dogs.

Trained Aggression
You’ve seen police or army dogs at work apprehending criminals. May be you’ve seen working dog trail. These dogs have been trained to attack or to defend their owners. How safe are these dogs? What is their motivation and are they “angry” or are they just following orders? We will study this type of aggression in full.

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Independent dachshund

By
24
Jan 2011

Different dog breeds have been bred for different reasons. Some have been developed to be very in-tune to their humans’ every need — working in close partnership to herd livestock or retrieve game, for example. Some have been developed to be strong, protective working dogs. And some have been developed to curl up and look pretty on the laps or in the sleeves of royalty. Dachshunds (like most Hounds) have been developed to think for themselves. Traditionally, the best Dachshunds were the ones that could follow scents without constant supervision, that could go into badger dens and corner badgers on their own, and that could bark to alert their human companions that the prey was cornered. It was man and Dachshund against badger or rabbit or wild boar.

Watching a Dachshund field trial is a great way to observe the Dachshund’s independent nature in action. In Dachshund field trials, Dachshunds compete in pairs to follow the scent of a rabbit. (The rabbit isn’t caught or killed; usually, it isn’t even seen by the dogs.) When the dogs catch the scent, or line, of the rabbit, the handlers aren’t allowed to intervene in any way to direct the Dachshunds. The dogs must trail the scent all on their own, followed by the watchful judges who determine which Dachshunds are most capable of following the trail.

In other words, Dachshunds — even the Minis — were made to perform reliably and intelligently without too much human intervention. Therefore, the best way to get through to a Dachshund so that she can learn your house rules and what you desire from her is to learn how to speak her language.

Dachshunds Can’t Obey What They Don’t Understand
If only you could tell your Dachsie, “Listen here, Gertrude. When you feel the urge to eliminate, please let me know ahead of time and I’ll let you outside.” Or, “This is the deal, Otto. When I say ‘Sit,’ you plant your rump on the ground and stay there. And when I say ‘Come,’ you run right over here as fast as you can. If you do, I’ll really like it a lot.”
Sadly, dog training isn’t that easy. But it isn’t too hard, either. The first thing you have to realize is that your Dachshund doesn’t speak English. Okay, sure, you know that. But have you really considered what it means? It means that your Dachshund isn’t being defiant the first time you say “Sit” and she just stares at you with a look that says, “What planet are you from?” She just doesn’t know what you’re talking about. Her mother didn’t tell her to Sit. How is she supposed to understand? And, even if your Dachshund has learned “Come” in the living room, she may not understand that when she smells a juicy squirrel dashing through the park and runs madly after it and you shriek “Come!” hysterically that you expect the same response as you did in the living room. (And no matter how much you practice, your Dachshund may still chase that squirrel, so keep her leash on outside!) Teaching your Dachshund what behavior you expect when you say certain words takes work and plenty of consistent practice. It also takes a certain degree of showing before the telling alone will work. Never hold a grudge against your Dachshund. After a few seconds, your dog will have no idea what you’re angry about. Dogs live in the present, and they only know that you’re angry. If you decide to punish your pup for chewing your shoe by keeping her locked up for two hours or by ignoring her all day, your punishment will be ineffective and even destructive, because your Dachshund will learn to fear you or avoid you rather than listen to you.

Communicating with Your Dachshund
How do you talk Dachshund? First, you have to see the world from your Dachshund’s point of view. Imagine that you’re a Dachshund, scampering around about 8 inches off the ground. You’ve suddenly been uprooted from the home you knew, and here you are in a strange place with a strange creature who towers above you and keeps uttering strange, undecipherable sounds. The creature seems very nice, offering food and petting you. The voice sounds well-intentioned, and sometimes you get treats.
But sometimes the voice gets mad, irritated, and scary. Sometimes the creature appears dangerous, waving his or her arms wildly and yelling. Sometimes the yelling seems to be at you, but you can’t imagine why. You want to do whatever will make the creature talk nicely, and you sure want some more of those treats. If only you knew what to do to elicit that behavior from your creature! Oh well, you may as well go on exploring your new environment, relieving yourself when you have to and chewing on whatever you find that looks tempting. After all, this is what dogs do; you don’t have any other instructions at least none you can understand. To get through to this uneducated and independent-minded little Dachshund, you have to be very specific in your rewards. The moment she does something good, praise her, pet her, even give her the occasional treat. When she’s naughty, redirect her to the right activity (hand her a chew toy, move her to her outdoor bathroom, and so on) without making any fuss. Ignore her until she does the right thing again and then heap on the praise. Now she’ll get the message. Don’t just praise your dog when she does something you ask her to. Also praise her when she does something well or right when you didn’t ask. Constant positive reinforcement of good behavior is integral to developing a good relationship with your Dachshund. If you spend the whole day yelling “No!” and “Bad dog!” but never rewarding your Dachshund for the things she does right, she won’t learn the self-confidence that’s so important to a well-trained and happy pet. And she certainly won’t learn what you want her to.

Staying calm and upbeat
If you want to relate to your Dachshund, the most important thing you can do is stay positive. Getting angry when your Dachshund eats your loveseat or leaves a puddle on your antique quilt is understandable, but it won’t do any good. Leave the room, get angry, get over it, come back, and resolve not to let it happen again, because (and you may not want to hear this) the whole thing was your fault anyway. Dachshunds aren’t malicious. They don’t hold grudges. Your Dachshund isn’t trying to wreck your stuff or disobey you. When she does something wrong (wrong according to your rules), it’s only because she didn’t understand that the behavior is unacceptable.

If you’re always (or at least usually) calm, positive, upbeat, and happy when teaching your Dachshund the rules, as well as the fun things you and she can do together, she’ll get your meaning much more quickly. Dachshunds are all about reward. What can they do to get one, and what can they do to get another one? It’s that simple. Yelling isn’t a reward. A slap on the rump isn’t a reward. Rubbing her nose in an accident is most certainly not a reward. But a treat? A pat? A walk? An enthusiastic “What a good,
sweet, darling little puppy dog you are!”? Now those are rewards that allow you to relate to a Dachshund.

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Dogs and people

By
18
Nov 2010

Dogs are adaptable animals. For the last 14,000 years they have learned how to live with humans around the world. Most pet dogs live in the same environment as their masters, but their needs vary with breed and size. Toy dogs and small dogs are often content to live mostly indoors and in small spaces. Medium and large dogs, such as a greyhound or a Saint Bernard, need more space and exercise. They need to be walked outdoors at least twice a day on a leash and, if possible, let loose to run and play in a closed yard or a field in the countryside.

A dog’s personality usually depends on the breed of the dog. For instance, herding dogs such as the Border Collie or a Jack Russell terrier have a lot of energy. This means they may need more exercise than a lower-energy dog like a pug. Dogs enjoy the company of other dogs. Walking is important because it allows dogs to meet other dogs. Many communities, such as cities where there may not be a lot of green space, have established special dog parks. They are enclosed outdoor spaces meant just for dogs and their owners. Dogs can be unleashed and are free to run and play with other dogs. Dog owners can enjoy meeting other dog owners, too. Most domestic dogs do not have to worry about predators. But in areas near forests or other wilderness regions, wild animals can be a threat. Dogs, especially small ones, have been killed by wild animals such as coyotes, wolves, bears, and mountain lions. People who live in areas where these wild animals have been seen should keep a close eye on their pets and not let them roam outside their yard. Pets should be kept indoors at night in order to avoid being stalked by predators at that time.

Dogs and people have been getting along as good friends for a long time. Most of us require nothing more from our “best friends” than a wagging tail and a lot of love. But there are many dogs that do much more to earn their keep and their masters’ love. Sporting dogs—including pointers, retrievers, and setters—help hunters find game birds and then fetch or retrieve them. Hounds with their keen sense of smell can also aid hunters. Dogs help law enforcement agencies to sniff out drugs and other illegal goods that people carry with them into airports and other places. Saint Bernards help search for and rescue people in trouble. Alaskan huskies pull sleds carrying people and goods in the frozen northern part of the world. Doberman pinschers guard homes and property against intruders.

German shepherds and other super-intelligent dogs work as Seeing Eye dogs, guiding blind and visually impaired people. Collies herd animals such as cattle and sheep. Terriers were once used to catch rodents.

Most people treat their dogs well, but some people mistreat and abuse dogs. A mistreated dog may become dangerous to other people. It might attack or bite without warning. It is not the dogs that are bad; it is people who train them to do bad things. Other people think they are being good to their dogs when they are actually being cruel. Such people allow their dog to mate with another dog and have babies. Because of this, many unwanted dogs are brought into the world each year. Many of these dogs are abandoned to live on the streets, and they become a public nuisance and a health hazard. Many abandoned dogs end up in animal shelters. If nobody adopts these dogs within a certain time period, they are put to sleep and destroyed. Millions of dogs in the United States face this fate each year.

Veterinarians and animal rights organizations strongly recommend that new dog owners have their dogs operated on at an early age to prevent them from having babies. In females, this simple operation is called spaying, and in males it is called neutering. The operation not only helps control the dog population but also benefits the dog. He or she stays calmer, less aggressive, and often healthier in old age than dogs without the operation. All these things make for a better family pet. Keeping a dog is a big responsibility. It requires patience, love, and hard work. But what you get in return is a friend for life.

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Keeping Your Dachsie Healthy

By
15
Oct 2010

Puppies are vulnerable. They look it when first born, too, but after they fill out a little and commandeer entire households, bending each helpless human to their will, they may not seem so helpless.

Vaccinations
Vaccinations protect your puppy from canine parvovirus, distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, and rabies, as well as diseases that may be more prevalent in your area (such as coronavirus and Lyme disease). One of the most important things you can do to keep your puppy healthy is to get her vaccinated first at 5 to 6 weeks of age. If you buy your Dachshund from a breeder, she should’ve had the first one or two vaccinations done already. Continue to vaccinate your puppy according to the regular schedule
suggested by your veterinarian. Different vets will recommend certain vaccinations at certain stages, so talk to your vet about when your puppy needs which vaccines. Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious viral disease that comes in a diarrheal form and a cardiac form. If not treated, it’s usually fatal — especially for puppies. Distemper is another highly contagious? and often fatal viral disease that causes severe neurological damage in its advanced stages. Hepatitis is a highly contagious virus that begins with a fever and can end in coma and death.

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that can cause death or severe kidney, liver, and digestive tract damage. It can also be transmitted to humans, along with rabies. A debate is ongoing about vaccinations. Many people claim that pets are overvaccinated and that some of the vaccines from the first year last longer than vets previously thought. That could be. Others claim that serious diseases can result from vaccinations.
That may also be true, especially with vaccinations of older dogs. But for puppies, that first year’s vaccination schedule is crucial. You can talk to your vet about how often your dog needs booster shots after the first year, and you can work out a schedule of lessfrequent vaccinations later, but please don’t neglect these initial vaccinations.

The one vaccine required by law is the rabies vaccine, so even if you’re anti-vaccine, you’re required to have proof of this one. You must show this proof to license your dog, board her in a kennel, and sometimes even to get veterinary care. Nobody wants to risk rabies, so be diligent about the rabies vaccine. Many places, like boarding kennels, doggy daycare, and even dog parks, require proof of other vaccinations, too. Unless your dog has a serious health problem and your vet advises against the vaccines, there really is no reason to ignore the first year of vaccinations. That’s not to say that vaccinations don’t involve risk. In rare cases, animals react adversely to vaccinations. The most serious reaction, an anaphylactic reaction, usually occurs in the first 15 to 60 minutes.

This can lead to sudden cardiac arrest, so keep a close eye on your puppy for the first hour after a vaccination. Other less-severe reactions can happen later, from general fatigue, discomfort, and loss of appetite to a local infection at the site of the vaccination. The chances your Dachshund will have a reaction are extremely slim, though, and most vets agree that the benefits of vaccination far outweigh the risks. But always watch your Dachshund carefully for a week or so after vaccines. If your Dachshund changes her behavior or gets ill in any way following a vaccination, call your vet immediately.

Some people suggest that puppies should never be around other dogs until all vaccinations are complete. But what about puppy obedience classes? If you bring your puppy to obedience classes at 3 or 4 months of age, be sure to choose a class that requires all puppy owners to show proof of vaccination. You should be okay. Better to have a well-trained puppy and take the very small risk that something may get passed around. Not training or socializing your puppy is a bigger risk because you’ll be more likely to give your Dachshund away when she gets to be too much trouble. Besides, your Dachshund will already have a few rounds of vaccinations under her belt, and she’s already working on building up her natural immunity — now she can build up her good manners!

Sterilization
Do you want to become a Dachshund breeder? Are you ready to devote most of your waking hours to the intense and often heartbreaking efforts of breeding, whelping, and raising, as well as studying to improve the health and temperament of Dachshunds? Are you ready to barely break even when you sell the puppies, to take back any puppy for any reason, to remain committed to every dog out of litter after litter, and to watch puppies fail to thrive and die in your arms?

If not, please sterilize your Dachshund. We are in the midst of a crisis in this country. Pet overpopulation is out of control, and the number of animals euthanized each year is staggering and saddening. According to Spay USA, every day 10,000 humans are born in the United States. In the same time frame, 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. The fact is, Dachshunds like to run, dig, and escape. Even under the best of conditions, your Dachshund could get free. If a female does, she could easily come home pregnant. If a male does, he could easily impregnate the neighbor’s champion Shih Tzu. You could end up with a litter of unwanted puppies on your hands — how will you find homes for them? At worst, your neighbor could take you to court.

Sterilization doesn’t cost much. In fact, many humane societies offer vouchers to make the procedure even cheaper; give your local society a call. Sterilization also is very safe for dogs. There’s a slight risk to any dog that undergoes general anesthesia, but almost all dogs come out of it just fine. Sterilization can even improve the behavior of dogs, and health benefits come with early sterilization (such as a reduced incidence of mammary tumors and fewer prostate problems). I can’t think of any reason why you wouldn’t want to sterilize your Dachshund, unless you specifically bought a specimen to serve as the foundation of a breeding program. In this case, you’ve made the full-fledged commitment to be the best breeder you can be.

Pest control
No matter where you live, and no matter how often you keep your Dachshund inside, your pup probably will have some contact with some kind of pest. Fleas are everywhere, for instance, and in the southern states and parts of California, fleas have established a comfortable and prolific year-round existence.
Ticks are everywhere, too, in the wooded areas of most states. Lyme disease — a serious and sometimes fatal disease spread by the deer tick — has been detected in 47 of 50 states. People can catch it, too, and become seriously debilitated by it. Many puppies, no matter how well they’re bred, are born with intestinal worms, and Dachshunds can easily pick up worms at any time during their lives. Mites that infect the ears or the skin abound, causing mange and other painful skin problems. Heartworms, dastardly critters, can kill your Dachshund by taking up residence in her blood vessels, lungs, or heart after transmission from a single mosquito bite. In other words, pest control is something every pet owner must deal with. Pests come in many forms, and none of them are any fun. But each of them can be dealt with easily, as long as you practice a little prevention and address any pest problem as soon as you detect it:
Fleas: Fleas are uncomfortable for your Dachshund and can cause complications ranging from severe allergic reactions to tapeworms. You probably won’t be too fond of fleas jumping on and off your arms and legs either, and if your Dachshund isn’t close by, the fleas will be happy to bite you. In rare cases, fleas can even infect humans with bubonic plague. Yikes!
Flea solutions: Prevention is the best solution. Apply a spot-on adulticide flea treatment (ask your vet for a recommendation) every month during flea season. A few drops
between your dog’s shoulder blades will kill the fleas that land on your Dachshund, even before they have a chance to bite. You can also treat your dog with an oral insect-growth-regulator treatment once a month all year round. Any flea that does bite your dog won’t be able to hatch any eggs, and the flea reproduction cycle will be halted before it can start. Leading parasitologists are recommending the oral protein Lufenuron as the core to flea control with topical to kill adult fleas if you see them, due to the inevitable resistance fleas are developing to topical agents. Ask your vet which flea products are best for your Dachshund. And don’t forget a thorough vacuuming around the house, along with washing your dog’s bedding in hot water — if you see any fleas. This combined approach should take care of the problem pretty quickly.
Ticks: Ticks can pass on severe diseases. The notorious Lyme disease is just one of many. Ticks are always dangerous when you walk with your Dachshund in wooded areas. They range in size, but sometimes the very smallest, barely visible ticks are the most dangerous.
Tick solutions: Please don’t try to burn off ticks or yank them out carelessly with your bare hands. You could injure your dog or cause an infection if tick parts get left under the skin; you could even infect yourself if the tick bursts and the blood gets on you. Instead, use a spot-on product made to kill ticks if you go out in tick-infested areas with your Dachshund. If your Dachshund does get a tick and you find it during your daily grooming session, pull it straight out slowly with tweezers or with your fingers (wear rubber gloves or use a tissue). If your Dachshund shows signs of listlessness, fatigue, and loss of appetite, Lyme disease could be the culprit. See your vet right away.
Worms: Roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms can cause a variety of symptoms, ranging from diarrhea and vomiting to weight loss, severe fatigue, pneumonia, and even death. If you aren’t thinking “Yuck!” at the very thought of worms, read on. Roundworms look like thin spaghetti, curled in your dog’s feces. Tapeworms look like 1?4- to 1?2-inch wiggly segments in your dog’s poop or on the skin or hair around the rectum. Hookworms penetrate your Dachshund’s skin, and the eggs can be detected under a microscope in your Dachshund’s feces. Whipworms look like 1-inch threads.
Worm solutions: Have every new puppy you adopt dewormed, usually a few times. In many cases, good breeders have this done for new pet owners. Have your vet check fecal samples a few times because worms can shed eggs intermittently, so a negative sample doesn’t always mean your puppy doesn’t have intestinal worms. To prevent reinfection, always keep your yard free of dog feces, and keep your Dachshund from sniffing poop from other dogs on walks. Many worms are transmitted when your Dachshund eats, or even sniffs, the feces of another dog (including your own dogs). A fence will help to keep stray dogs and their remains out of your yard. Once or twice a year throughout your Dachshund’s life, continue to have your vet do a fecal examination to check for the ongoing presence or arrival of worms.
Mites: Mites cause severe itching and a variety of unpleasant and unattractive skin conditions — sometimes referred to collectively as mange. Some mites infect your Dachshund’s ears; others live in her skin. Suspect ear mites if your Dachshund shakes her head a lot and scratches at her ears. Dark earwax is another sign. Scabies is a skin condition caused by a mite, and humans can get it, too. Scabies itches and often results in hair loss. Chiggers are tiny, red mites that live in wooded areas and burrow under your dog’s skin, causing itching and redness. Other types of mites cause puppy dandruff, mild itching, and hair loss, and some live in the hair follicles and infects them.
Mite solutions: See your vet to acquire various types of creams, drops, dips, or shampoos, depending on the type of mite he finds. And don’t wait. Your Dachshund won’t enjoy being bald and itchy.
Heartworms: Heartworms are transmitted from mosquitoes and, if left untreated, will kill your Dachshund. They travel to your dog’s heart and mature there, reaching lengths of up to 12 inches. A dog with heartworms can be treated (the treatment isn’t cheap), but if the heartworms are too advanced, it may be too late.
Heartworm solutions: First and foremost, prevent, prevent, prevent. Give your Dachshund a heartworm pill on schedule every single month, all year round — or always during mosquito season — for her entire life. Even if your Dachshund doesn’t go outside for very long, she can still get a mosquito bite. In fact, indoor-only Dachshunds have contracted heartworm from mosquitoes that got in the house. Also, avoid mosquito-infested areas whenever possible; use a product designed to repel mosquitoes on dogs when you must. (Don’t use your human bug spray on your dog, however.) Heartworm pills are great for preventing heartworms, but if your Dachshund already has heartworms, a heartworm pill could be fatal. Always have your Dachshund tested for heartworms before beginning heartworm pills. Most vets recommend a yearly test just before mosquito season. Never neglect this yearly test because an extra year or two carrying around a heartworm population could make a big difference in how treatable the problem will be.

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Puppy in home

By
11
Sep 2010

So you think your sweet little dog couldn’t make too much of a mess? You’d be surprised. Do you really love your collection of antique teacups or crystal vases? Then either display them well above the level any Dachshund can reach or put them away for a while. Puppies are exuberant and curious, and they haven’t yet learned what areas are off limits to them. It’s not the puppy’s fault if he jumps onto that end table to see just what’s up there and breaks something valuable. Imagine that you have a toddler in the house and pack away the fragile stuff accordingly.

dachshund-pupyAlso, although a Dachshund is small, he has a pretty big mouth, and I don’t just mean he barks a lot. He can also chew to the point of major destruction. Really. No two ways about it, Dachshunds love to chew. In fact, they not only love it, but they also consider it their dog-given right. Your Dachshund will consider anything that looks chewable to be his own personal property. So you thought that slipper was yours? Think again. As far as your new puppy is concerned, if he sees it and decides he wants to chew it, it’s his.

The best way to combat the loss of some of your more valuable pairs of shoes, not to mention your furniture, is to have a good one is always within reach. Look for sturdy chew toys without small parts that could break off. If you’re consistent about enforcing the house rules, your new puppy will soon learn what is okay to chew and what isn’t. Then, eventually, he’ll develop enough selfcontrol to stop himself from chewing that juicy-looking, brand-new sneaker.

Avoid giving your Dachshund cat toys, even if you have a Mini. Dachshunds are more enthusiastic chewers than cats and they have larger mouths and stronger jaws. Cat toys often have small pieces like bells, feathers, or felt that a Dachshund can easily swallow or choke on. The best way to discourage this sort of destruction in the early stages is to offer a firm “No” when your Dachshund is in the process of chewing or clawing; then immediately redirect him to an acceptable but similar activity. For example, if your Dachsie is chewing your shoe, say “No!” and then take away the shoe, replacing it with a chew toy in his mouth. If he chews the chew toy, heap on the praise.

If you have a piece of furniture or other object that your Dachshund just won’t leave alone, buy a bottle of chew-deterrent spray, like Bitter Apple brand spray, and follow the directions. This spray makes the object taste horrible, and your Dachshund will probably learn quickly to leave it alone. If this doesn’t work, you may also try wrapping the area in aluminum foil or keeping a spray bottle filled with water on hand to deter the behavior. Or you can keep a can filled with pennies nearby to startle your Dachshund away from the forbidden area.

If you have a digger, you may want to consider purchasing a few carpet squares or remnants that are reserved for your Dachshund. He can dig and scratch on them to his heart’s content. If he scratches and digs on your carpet or wall, move him immediately to his carpet — even help move his paws in a digging motion over it. If he gets it, praise him for all you’re worth. He’ll get the idea . . . eventually.

Poisons
Want another thing to worry about with a chew-happy puppy? Poisons. Even if you keep the drain cleaner and the bleach out of reach, plenty of other household items and substances can poison your puppy, from ibuprofen (like Advil) or aspirin tablets to rotten food in your trashcan. Here are some common household poisons that you should keep well out of reach from your puppy:
- Cleaners of all types. Some are more toxic than others, but who wants to wait and see which ones may be okay?
- All human and pet medication. Even if you’re not sure that a specific medicine is toxic to pets, keep them all out of reach.
Some medications, such as ibuprofen (Advil), are highly toxic to pets.
- Pesticides of any type. Even your pet’s flea control product can be toxic if gobbled up. Don’t let your puppy play with or chew any insect traps or bait, like rat, mouse, or roach traps.
- Certain foods. Dogs can be poisoned by chocolate, onions, grapes or raisins, and even sugarless gum. Even small amounts can be fatal.
- Some houseplants. They’re poisonous to varying degrees. Keep your plants above Dachshund level.
- Some miscellaneous items. Many seemingly innocuous items can be extremely toxic to a dog, such as potpourri oil, coffee grounds, fabric softener sheets, dishwashing detergent, batteries, cigarettes, and alcohol.
While doing poison control, don’t forget the yard. Keep your puppy off the lawn if you’ve recently sprayed it with insecticides or fertilizer. Keep all lawn and garden chemicals out of reach (not to mention sharp objects). Keep your puppy out of the garage, too. Gasoline, oil, and antifreeze can kill your puppy. Also, the following common outdoor plants are poisonous to dogs:
-Azalea
-Oleander
-Castor bean
-Sago palm
-Yew plant
One tablespoon of antifreeze can kill a 20-pound dog, so imagine how little it would take to harm your Mini Dachshund. Antifreeze smells and tastes yummy to dogs. So Dachs-proof your garage and driveway in the winter by keeping antifreeze out of reach. Even leaking or spilled puddles on the driveway can mean death to your dog. (Note that you can now buy antifreeze that’s advertised as
safer for pets, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t still do everything you can to keep your pet away from it.)
pupy-dachshund

The Stairs
A big thing to consider when Dachs-proofing your home is how to make your stairs Dachshund-friendly. Stairs are hard on Dachshund backs, especially for the Minis because each step is a lot bigger to a 7-pound dog than to a 30-pound dog. If you have stairs in your home, that’s no reason to give up your Dachshund dreams. But you do need to take a few precautions. If you have the space and the resources, a ramp is great for Dachshunds. A ramp is most practical outside, where you can offer
your dog an alternate route off the deck. The problem is that some Dachshunds ignore that carefully constructed ramp and take the stairs anyway. (Some gladly use the ramp, though. You just never
know.)

You can install a gate so the ramp is the only way down for your pet, but now you’re getting pretty fancy. Some gates, made for small children or pets, bolt onto walls or decks and have an easyopen
swinging mechanism for the convenience of adults. This option is worth it if you can afford it, but it’s not for everyone.

Inside is a different story. Most people don’t have the space to build a ramp over half their staircase. The best solution is to install those pet gates (or baby gates) at the top and bottom of all staircases.
The newer ones bolt to the wall and swing open so you don’t have to take the whole gate off to go up and down. Most can be operated easily with one hand. Then, when your Dachsie has to go upstairs, you can pick him up and carry him. And when he’s ready to go back down? Pick him up and carry him again.

Some people aren’t willing to do this task, of course, and others argue that Dachshunds are built to be natural athletes and should be able to climb stairs. I won’t argue. Some Dachsies race up and down the stairs all day long, every day, and never suffer from a back problem. Others may develop back problems, and you won’t know whether or not it had anything to do with daily jaunts up and down your staircase.

Deciding whether or not your Dachsie is allowed to climb the stairs comes down to risk assessment. Going up and down stairs can be hard on those Dachshunds who’ll probably have back problems anyway, and climbing the steps may trigger an incident. Other dogs, though, will be fine. You can play it safe but expend more effort, or you can expend a lot of effort to prevent something that may never happen. As long as you recognize that you’re taking responsibility for your pet, you can make the decision.

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